Hakka Tour

Glancing left at the old train station's ice shop and looking right at the endless sunset over Leshan Temple. Finally, the trip with you to Dashanbei comes to mind. Even the bustling Hakka delicacies on Neiwan Old Street couldn't draw my gaze away from your smile. For I know clearly that this rich cultural landscape, full of green peaks and ridges, is only truly scenic when beheld together with you.

This article will be structured as follows so you can easily follow along:

1. Take a railway tour through Hengshan Township's Hakka villages
2. One-day travel itinerary in Hengshan Township
3. Map of railway attractions along Hengshan Township
      3-1. Little-known spring cherry blossom spot: Hengshan Station (Hengshan Studio, Bagua Alley)
      3-2. Once the second busiest station in Taiwan Railways: Jiuzantou Station (Happiness Ice Shop, Noon Turnip Cake)
      3-3. The only wooden depot on the Neiwan Line and rare switchback station ruins: Hexing Station (Hexing Love Forest Park)
      3-4. Renamed for its auspicious meaning of "Prosperity and Wealth": Fugui Station (Old Jianfeng coal mine site)
      3-5. The most famous station on the Neiwan Line: Neiwan Station (Neiwan Old Street)
4. Self-drive itinerary of Hengshan Township attractions
      4-1. Bogong temple with rarely seen shrimp and crab decorations: Zhanwu Bogong Temple
      4-2. Irrigation project turning hills into rice fields: Sancha Pond
      4-3. Abandoned elementary school transformed into a Hakka cultural and ecological center: Big Hill North Moon
      4-4. A religious center blending Buddhist and Taoist beliefs: Leshan Temple
5. Reflections on a themed Hakka village trip in Hengshan

In May, the gentle steps of spring quietly enter Hengshan Township in Hsinchu. Time seems to slow down here, merging with the air and landscape. The Hakka culture, like a soft light, illuminates Hengshan Township, enriching it with charm and flavor. The Neiwan Line of Taiwan Railways is the audible memory of Hengshan Township, with tracks that traverse mountains and streams, creating a delicate thread that connects the past with the present.

Board the Neiwan Line and delve deep into the mountain trails. Savor the stories hidden behind each scenic view, and explore every Hakka cultural relic, each telling a tale of history. Over half of Hengshan Township’s population is Hakka, with evidence of Hakka settlers dating back centuries. Hengshan also boasts the second-highest number of Taiwan Railway stations in the country. With numerous tourist spots along the line, exploring Hakka culture via the railway is the perfect way. This article will outline 10 classic tourist spots in Hengshan Township, providing both railway and self-drive itineraries for readers.

The most local way to travel Hengshan is by railway. Visitors can take Taiwan Railways to Hsinchu or Zhuzhong stations, then transfer to the Neiwan Line to reach Hengshan, a journey of about 40-50 minutes. Hengshan Township has five Taiwan Railway stations: Hengshan, Jiuzantou, Hexing, Fugui, and Neiwan. Each station features several attractions and delicacies, easily accessible on foot. Note that the Neiwan Line is a branch line, so trains are infrequent. Plan the stop times carefully!

For those opting to drive, a deeper exploration of Hengshan’s Hakka culture and natural beauty is possible. It takes about 20-30 minutes to drive from Hsinchu Railway Station or High-Speed Rail Station to Hengshan. Driving allows for a more flexible schedule and the ability to visit additional sites like Zhanwu Bogong Temple, Sancha Pond, Leshan Temple, and Big Hill North Moon.

When the Neiwan Line was first completed, its carriages were primarily loaded with timber resources from Hengshan's forests. This timber was crucial for construction and development at the time. Forestry was one of the main industries for the Hakka people living in the mountains. The lumber transport trucks winding through the mountains bore witness to the early stages of Taiwan's industrial growth. As industrialization progressed, the Neiwan Line's freight shifted to coal and cement, essential materials for the burgeoning steel and energy industries, reflecting Taiwan's industrial boom and technological advancements.

However, with increasing environmental awareness, changes in industrial structures, and the booming tourism industry, the Neiwan Line has shifted from carrying cargo to welcoming passengers eager to take in the beautiful scenery. This transformation reflects Taiwan's industrial history and showcases the island's economic development and evolution.

The first station you encounter upon entering Hengshan Township is Hengshan Station. A quick look at Google Maps reveals that the Neiwan Line makes a significant curve from Zhudong Station to reach Hengshan Station before proceeding to the next stop, Jiuzantou. Initially, Hengshan Station was not part of Taiwan's railway plan due to its location. However, Hengshan Village residents were frequently isolated by floods during the typhoon season, prompting them to petition for the railway to extend into their village, resulting in the establishment of Hengshan Station.

Hengshan Station might be unattended, but it is full of life thanks to the colorful art installations created by local villagers and artists, bringing a touch of joy to everyone who visits. The station has two platforms: the original one, which is lower and shorter, and a newer one built for easier access as the village population aged. Interestingly, they kept the old platform, making Hengshan one of the rare "double-platform" stations in Taiwan.

Step into Zhanqian Street in front of the station, and stroll among the unique cement old houses, and you will find Hengshan Studio hidden among them. Originally a 60-year-old rice mill, it was transformed in the summer of 2020 into its current charming state.

This quaint space allows travelers to purchase local agricultural products from small farmers, savor hand-brewed coffee, or enjoy authentic Hakka snacks. It’s like a relay station for travelers in Hengshan. On this visit, I tried the traditional Hakka roasted sweet rice cake, which had a mochi-like texture with a rich rice fragrance. It was delicious even without any seasoning or dipping sauce.

Hengshan Studio is also the core base for local revitalization, where returning young locals, small farmers, and cultural workers constantly gather and work together to promote the "Hengshan Satoyama" concept. Their aim is to deepen the connection between industries and the land through their actions. Before my trip, I was unclear about the location of the famous Zhanwu Bogong Temple in Hengshan Village, so I took the opportunity to ask the staff at Hengshan Studio for directions while enjoying my snack, and they provided very clear guidance!

Leaving Hengshan Studio and stepping onto the village path, I ventured deeper, the alleys became more complex and narrow, and I found myself in Bagua Alley. When the early Hakka settlers arrived in Hengshan to cultivate the land, they often clashed with indigenous peoples over territory. To defend themselves, they designed their settlement in the shape of a "bagua" (a symbol with eight trigrams) to confuse outsiders, giving villagers more time to defend or escape.

Walking further into the alley, you will find a three-century-old Bogong tree next to Hengshan Elementary School. Legend has it that village children would climb this camphor tree to watch for smoke signals indicating an attack from the indigenous peoples. Beneath the tree is the Bogong temple, the spiritual center for Hengshan's Hakka villagers.

The wooden Jiuzantou Station, much like Hengshan Station, is a humble stop devoid of a stationmaster's presence. Its minimalist design offers merely card readers, allowing passengers to come and go unencumbered. This locality was once a Hakka village, its origins tracing back to the first settlers who frequently paused to rest and dine beneath the welcoming shade of a tree known as the Jiuzan Tree, a solitary landmark in the surrounding wilderness. Over the passing years, this tree evolved into a symbolic guardian, bestowing upon the place its melodious name, Jiuzantou, a moniker imbued with beauty and significance.

Behind Jiuzantou Station, you can see the once-thriving Asia Cement Corporation. It made Jiuzantou the second busiest freight station on the Neiwan Line, primarily transporting coal for cement production. Although Asia Cement has ceased operations, it stands like a stooped old man, quietly observing the history of the station for the past sixty years. The preserved multiple tracks at the station continue to remind travelers of its bustling past.

Near Jiuzantou Station, you'll find the Happiness Ice Shop, a beloved establishment with over 50 years of history. The ice pops here are incredibly affordable, with many flavors available for just a few coins. More importantly, the variety of flavors ensures that every ice pop is made with quality ingredients. On a warm spring day in Hengshan, enjoying an ice pop here is the perfect way to cool down and feel a sense of happiness.

On the bank of the Youluo River, next to the Jiuzantou levee, sunlight filters through the green tree leaves, dancing on the wooden walls of Noon Turnip Cake. The name “Noon” refers to 12 o'clock noon, and "Turnip Cake" is a Hakka term for rice-based foods.

Noon Turnip Cake was created by local youths who returned to their hometown, focusing on classic Hakka rice dishes. The most popular offering is the "Noon Turnip Cake Set Meal," which allows you to sample a variety of Hakka rice dishes, from main courses to desserts. The dishes here are minimally seasoned, preserving the natural aroma of rice and blending traditional Hakka flavors with a healthy diet philosophy.

In the early days, when resources were scarce, the Hakka people created Shui Ban, a steamed savory rice cake crafted with just a modest amount of rice and water. This dish, simple, nutritious, and filling, became a quintessential staple of the agricultural era. While I did not have the opportunity to sample the set meal during this particular visit, I did partake in the making of another Hakka delicacy, Niu Wen Shui, thereby experiencing the allure of traditional cuisine firsthand.

Hexing Station is the only wooden station on the Neiwan Line. It experienced a decline when the cement corporation ceased operations, leading Taiwan Railways to plan its closure. However, a couple adopted the station, preserving it and giving it the name "Love Station." Today, the surrounding area has been developed into the Love Forest Park, a popular spot for couples to take photos and make memories.

The park features numerous love-themed art installations, remnants of old tracks, and aerial cable cars that once transported cement materials. The most unique feature is the "split" platform design, which allowed cargo trains to stop safely. The station is set at a turnaround point, making it a rare switchback station in Taiwan.

Visitors can write their wishes and attach locks to the love lock wall, creating lasting memories of their trip. Like the couple who adopted the station, travelers can leave their stories and memories here forever.

Station names usually reflect their local areas, but Fugui Station is an exception. A few years ago, Taiwan Railways renamed the station from "Nanhe" to "Fugui," a name unrelated to the locality, simply to pair with the "Ronghua" Station on the Neiwan Line and issue auspicious phrase tickets as “Ronghua Fugui” means “having a wealthy life” in Chinese. That’s why you can still spot remnants of the original "Nanhe" name in the station.

Hengshan Township was once famous for its mining industry, and about a kilometer from Fugui Station, you can find the old Jianfeng coal mine site. This site has preserved mining relics, including staff dormitories, machinery rooms, and even cables that Asia Cement used to transport materials. The tranquil atmosphere of the area feels like stepping into a scene from the movie "Spirited Away."

However, as the mining industry declined, the local population gradually moved away. Coupled with more frequent bus services, Fugui Station has become a lonely and almost forgotten spot. When no trains pass through, the surroundings are so quiet as if time has stopped.

Neiwan Station is the terminus of the Neiwan Line, initially built to transport timber and coal. Stepping inside, you can still sense the 1950s architectural style and see remnants from the steam train era. The station features a commemorative monument that highlights the hard work and dedication of the early Hakka settlers.

Departing the station, you will find yourself on Neiwan Old Street, the most renowned thoroughfare in Hengshan Township. This street is akin to a temporal vortex, where crimson brick pillars and wooden planks forge a captivating contrast, and Japanese black tiles glisten under the sun's radiance. The traditional street houses lining Neiwan Old Street exude the unique allure of Hakka culture at every turn. As you meander through, be sure not to miss the ginger lily rice dumplings, Hakka mochi, caozaiguo (glutinous rice cakes flavored with herbs), Hakka pounded tea, and an array of authentic Hakka rice dishes.

In Hakka communities, the worship of Bogong is ubiquitous, with Bogong being the Hakka equivalent of Tudigong (the Earth God in Taiwanese folk religion). Most Bogong temples are built simply with slate, reflecting a humble style using local materials. However, the Zhanwu Bogong Temple in Tianliao Village, Hengshan, stands out with its unique shrimp and crab carvings on the temple’s façade, a rarity among Bogong temples.

These carvings carry profound meanings: the shrimp on the roof symbolizes good fortune, while the crab’s shell implies success in the imperial examinations. Together, they represent the hope for future generations to excel academically and achieve great success. Coincidentally, a retired principal of a local elementary school resides in the ancient building behind the Zhanwu Bogong Temple.

When speaking of the development of Hsinchu's Hengshan area, Sancha Pond is an inevitable topic. Located at the foot of Dashanbei Mountain in Hengshan, Sancha Pond was once a low hilly area suitable only for growing fruit trees and tea. However, about a century ago, the Chen family began excavating this pond, channeling water to irrigate the surrounding farmland. This transformation turned the hills into lush green rice fields, irrigating an area of 50 hectares and becoming a critical agricultural backbone for Hengshan.

Sancha Pond remained a hidden gem of the Hengshan Hakka villages until the Hakka drama “Wintry Night II” filmed scenes there, bringing its layered green hills and shimmering waters to the public eye. Today, the serene landscape of green mountains and clear waters around the pond enchants visitors like a fairyland. You can start your visit by worshipping at the Bogong Temple made of slate stone at the entrance to the pond, then take a leisurely stroll around it to enjoy the rich ecological scenery and discover the hidden beauty at every corner. This is one of my personal favorite spots in Hengshan.

Nestled in the mountains, Big Hill North Moon is set in what used to be the abandoned Fengxiang Elementary School. The founder preserved the original school buildings, lawn, and various campus elements, transforming it into a picturesque restaurant where visitors can enjoy fine cuisine and beautiful views, either in the forest or within the classrooms. The name derives from the "Dashanbei" area in Hengshan, with "bei" creatively deconstructed into "north" and "moon." This space has been developed into the "Dashanbei Hakka Cultural and Ecological Center," dedicated to preserving the history of local industries and showcasing the agricultural products of local small farmers.

A visit to Big Hill North Moon is incomplete without trying the specialty foods along Taiwan's Provincial Highway 3. For example, the afternoon tea set I tried included the unique Oriental Beauty Tea, renowned as the "Champagne of Teas," and a bagel infused with Hakka kumquat jam, each bite rich with local flavors.

In May, Big Hill North Moon becomes a popular spot for viewing tung blossoms in Hengshan as tung flowers fall from the trees to the floor. In June, visitors can enjoy the sight of fireflies, highlighting the founder's efforts to preserve the local ecology while redeveloping Big Hill North Moon.

The final stop of the journey is Leshan Temple, where you can enjoy a beautiful sunset. Nestled halfway up Dashanbei, Leshan Temple was built in 1889. Due to the difficulty of transporting materials, most of the construction materials were sourced locally. The temple is now listed as a county-designated historic site in Hsinchu County. Initially named "Shixia Temple," it was damaged during the Japanese occupation and was not rebuilt until 1921, becoming the spiritual center for local residents.

Leshan Temple primarily enshrines the three Buddhas (Shakyamuni, Amitabha, and Bhaisajyaguru) and memorial tablets of Hakka ancestors who resisted the Japanese. The temple embodies a blend of Buddhist and Taoist beliefs and Hakka spirit. From here, you can overlook the winding Youluo River, and on a clear day, enjoy panoramic views of Nanliao, Hengshan, and Qionglin. The expansive vistas make it a perfect spot to appreciate the sunset and the natural beauty.

Traversing Hengshan's Hakka villages and visiting the once-bustling train stations feels like retracing the ebbs and flows, the upheavals that these places had witnessed over the years. The bustling streets and crowded alleys have quieted over the decades, with young people moving to cities for work, leaving behind scattered grocery stores, deserted streets, and lonely stations.

Thankfully, there is a dedicated group preserving these fading stories and traditions. Cultural historians like those at Hengshan Studio and young people returning to their hometown to work at Noon Turnip Cake are ensuring the vibrant interactions and cultural exchanges between the Hoklo and Hakka communities are not lost to time. Their work allows travelers embarking on this Hakka railway journey to gain authentic insights into the rich heritage of Hengshan Township.

In this land, the Hakka people live in harmony with nature through a simple and slow-paced lifestyle. Their respect and gratitude for the land have coalesced into Hengshan's unique life philosophy. Throughout the journey, you not only experience the grandeur of nature but also a sense of calm and understanding of life. Tasting the distinctive Hakka delicacies, you savor not just the delicious heritage but also the cherished emotions and human connections.

Hakka culture endows Hengshan Township with profound meaning and value. Let's catch the spring breezes and journey along the Neiwan Line railway to immerse ourselves in the Hakka charm of Hengshan. Amid the serenity here, we'll discover a sense of belonging woven into our travels.