Hakka Tour

The late spring atmosphere in Hsinchu is both rich and refreshing. Every gentle breeze carries the scent of untold stories. Step into Heijinting next to Zhulian Temple, where the black-tiled Japanese low houses intertwine with the red-brick buildings of traditional Min-style architecture. Listen to the clamor of Jinshanmian Market, where vendors hawk red yeast, preserved vegetables, and Hakka rice dishes. In May, when fleeting warmth turns swiftly to chill, the radiant sun promises fair weather. Hsinchu remains a familiar yet unfamiliar city.

This article will be structured as follows for you to follow along:

1. Introduction: A lingering prose of Hsinchu travel.
2. Hakka Village Mini Tour Routes in Hsinchu City (East District, Zhubei).
3. Hakka Village Attractions/Food Recommendations in Hsinchu City：
      3-1. The glorious history of industrial and ethnic unity: Heijinting.
      3-2. Immerse in a May Snow of Tung Blossoms: Eighteen Peaks (Shibajian) Mountain Tung Blossom Plaza.
      3-3. A microcosm of Taiwan’s modern history: Jinshanmian.
      3-4. The accumulation of time and cultural richness: Preservation Areas of Hakka Culture and Historical Residences in Zhubei.
4. Reflections on Hsinchu City Hakka Village Mini Tour.

Late spring's warmth and chill greeted me as I stepped out of the station gates. The day gradually turned into sunny, beautiful weather. The familiar hustle and bustle, memorable alleys, and the breeze carrying that familiar scent welcomed me. This is Hsinchu, a city where I lived for eight years, almost calling it home.

When it comes to traveling in Hsinchu, my answer might align with most locals. The City God Temple, Moat Park, and Big City Shopping Mall come to mind. For those willing to venture a bit further, there's the Qingqing Grassland, Xiangshan Wetlands, and Smangus. In my time in Hsinchu, all the wonderful things about this land seem to have become so familiar through the routine of everyday life that we never truly delved into everything about this place.

It's well-known that the Hsinchu and Miaoli regions in western Taiwan are major hubs for the Hakka community, particularly in the bustling Hsinchu City, where about one-third of the population is Hakka. However, with the development of the Hsinchu Science Park and urbanization, Hsinchu City's Hakka culture is more subtle compared to areas along the mountain line such as Beipu, Zhudong, Qionglin, and Emei.

But if you look closely, you'll find Hakka historical elements and culture tucked away in the most ordinary corners. These cultural traces are like hidden treasures, waiting for travelers to discover and experience. This time, I'm sharing a Hakka-themed itinerary in Hsinchu City, from the East District to Zhubei, so everyone can deeply appreciate a different side of Hsinchu.

The Hsinchu City Hakka one-day itinerary introduced in this article can be divided into three main parts: the Heijinting district near the back of the train station, the Jinshanmian district near the Science Park, and the preservation areas of Hakka culture and historical residences in Zhubei. Each area is worth a 2-3 hour visit, starting from Hsinchu Train Station and returning via Hsinchu High-Speed Rail Station.

In the early days, the area around train stations was always considered the heart of the city's political and economic development. As a result, many settlements expanded outward from train stations. During that time, Hakka employees working for Taiwan Railways also chose to live near the back of the train station for convenient commuting. Over time, this area gradually developed into a community predominantly occupied by Hakka people and was known as Heijinting.

The name Heijinting has various origins. One popular explanation is that in the early days, trains were powered by coal, which was difficult to ignite. Even when trains were stationed at the old Hsinchu roundhouse, the coal fires were not extinguished, causing the buildings near the back of the train station to be blackened by coal soot. Thus, the area earned the nickname "Heijin" (literally "black gold"). Although the unique settlement no longer exists due to rapid urban changes, industrial and occupational transformation, and the influx and integration of diverse ethnic groups, you can still find many traces of Hakka culture here. Heijinting remains a significant part of Hsinchu's urban and railway development history.

從竹蓮街地下道走出來後，首先會看到在右側的「大橘井藥妝」，過去網路和經銷通路並不像如今的普及，因此在那個年代，許多成藥廣告都會將大橘井藥妝店列為指定購買通路，甚至有了「觀音亭，隧道口，橘井藥房」的口號，這不僅象徵著大橘井藥妝店在當地的知名度，也間接引出黑金町的盛況與繁榮。

Continue walking forward, and you will encounter the bustling Zhulian Street, the busiest street near the back station. This street is a major thoroughfare, and its traffic is boosted by the thriving incense offerings at the nearby Zhulian Temple. The businesses on Zhulian Street primarily focus on steamed sticky rice, incense powder, and sacrificial goods, all closely tied to the daily lives of the locals. For example, the famous Feng Gu Sticky Rice and Xiecheng Sticky Rice originate from here. Beloved by both residents and tourists, the sticky rice shops have become an essential cultural feature of the area around the back station of Hsinchu Train Station.

In Heijinting, the historic cosmetics industry with its "white powder" shops stood in stark contrast to the "black gold" industry that gave the area its name. While most of the traditional "white powder" cosmetics sellers have now been replaced by modern chain stores, you can still find enduring establishments like the WANTE Cosmetics Shop nestled in the alleys as a reminder of this juxtaposition of industries from the past.

Opposite WANTE Cosmetics Shop is Yuan Zhen Soy Sauce, a business that has been running for over 80 years and was once selected as one of the top ten souvenirs of Hsinchu City.

The next stop is the spiritual center of Heijinting, the 240-year-old Zhulian Temple. Originally named Guanyin Temple, the temple is dedicated to Guanyin Bodhisattva. The most notable feature of its appearance is the temple courtyard, which still retains its "stone slab ground." Many parts of the temple preserve the original wooden structures, intricate stone carvings, and colorful Koji pottery, showcasing an ancient and elegant architectural style that is truly awe-inspiring.

One of the temple's grandest events is the Qiniangma Festival (the seven fairy maidens) held annually on the Qixi Festival (Chinese Valentine's Day). This event attracts countless devotees, demonstrating the deep religious faith of the local residents and underscoring the temple's significant cultural and communal value.

Step into the alleys beside Zhulian Temple, where Japanese-style low houses with black tiles intermingle with Min-style red-brick buildings, creating a sense of time travel back to vibrant memories of the past. Among these streets, the most striking feature is the ancient well behind Zhulian Temple. This well, over a century old, was once the main water source for local residents. Although the well's opening is now sealed, it cannot conceal the countless years and old stories it holds. Standing by the well, it feels as if you can hear the everyday bustling of past inhabitants.

Continuing along Zhulian Street, you'll come across the Nantan Dazhong Temple. During the Qing Dynasty, as more people crossed the sea to Taiwan, conflicts between different ethnic groups intensified, especially the frequent skirmishes between Min and Hakka groups.

As a result, local authorities at the time built this temple to commemorate the unclaimed spirits of those who died in these conflicts or far from home. Today, Nantan Dazhong Temple stands not just as a space woven into the fabric of community life. Its very existence bears witness to that turbulent era and the profound loss it wrought upon the land.

As the crowd around Zhulian Temple grew, related industries such as incense shops and street vendors proliferated, extending all the way to the Nantan Dazhong Temple area. However, this bustling scene began to impact local traffic, prompting the government to construct Zhulian Market to alleviate the situation.

Zhulian Market is Taiwan’s first modernized traditional market equipped with air conditioning and escalators. It is also one of the largest Hakka vendor clusters in Taiwan! Even around the market, you can see many Hakka people from other parts of Hsinchu selling their produce. Hakka people, known for their frugality developed during times of scarcity, traditionally rely on easily accessible ingredients from their fields, such as rice, vegetables, and tofu-based foods.

Inside Zhulian Market, you can find a variety of classic Hakka delicacies, including preserved vegetables (Fucai), glutinous rice balls (Tang Yuan), crystal dumplings, herbal rice cakes (Caozai Guo), and red yeast products. Besides the ingredients, Zhulian Market also offers dine-in seating areas and small eateries. It's highly recommended to enjoy Hakka cuisine here for lunch before continuing to your next destination!

As you leave Heijinting and head towards Jinshanmian, you’ll pass by one of Hsinchu City's most important small peaks: Eighteen Peaks (Shibajian) Mountain. Formerly known as Tiger Head Mountain, it was developed into a forest park during the Japanese colonial period and became an air raid shelter during World War II. Today, it’s a popular spot for locals to hike and stroll. The park features well-maintained trails with rich biodiversity and gentle slopes, making it easy to reach the highest point, Jieshou Pavilion, without much effort.

The park's vegetation is dominated by Taiwan Acacia. In March, you can see azaleas, and in May, the park is adorned with tung blossoms, a symbol of Hakka culture.

On this visit, I entered from the Baoshan Road entrance and was greeted by the Eighteen Peaks Mountain Tung Blossom Plaza. Strolling along the Tung Blossom Trail, basking in the dappled sunlight and enjoying the forest bath amid May's tung blossom snow, was truly delightful.

"Shall we go to Jinshan Street for a meal?" This phrase was commonly heard among my classmates after school. Today’s Jinshan District has a familiar yet different connection to the Jinshanmian District of a century ago. About 200 years ago, the Jinshanmian area was originally an indigenous hunting ground, primarily for deer. Later, during the Qing Dynasty, the "Tuniu Ditch" was established as a boundary separating indigenous peoples and Han people, turning the area into arable land for the Pingpu people. This is when Hakka settlers began their cultivation here. The Qing Dynasty further established a ritual circle centered around Jinshan Temple, forming the foundation of today's Jinshanmian community.

As development progressed, the influx of various ethnic groups led to conflicts and clashes, and Jinshanmian became a historical battlefield for skirmishes and anti-Japanese struggles. Post-war, regional identity gradually replaced ancestral homeland identity, with Minnan and Hakka people jointly developing Jinshanmian. The area became more ethnically diverse. Later, with the establishment of the Hsinchu Science Park, much of the land was converted into industrial zones, transforming Jinshanmian into the present-day Jinshan District.

Today, the Jinshanmian area showcases a blend of cultural elements from indigenous peoples, Hakka, and Minnan people. Through its historical remnants and modern developments, it presents a rich and diverse social landscape. From past conflicts and anti-Japanese battles to current technological and industrial advancements, Jinshanmian reflects Taiwan's social evolution, making it a living cultural landmark and a microcosm of Taiwan's modern history.

You can start your visit to Jinshanmian from Taiwan’s first Jinshan Temple. Built in 1853, it was originally named Xianglian Nunnery. After several renovations and name changes, it was finally named Jinshan Temple or Hakka People's Temple during the Japanese colonial period. Standing for 160 years, it has been a significant center of Hakka faith.

Like Zhulian Temple, Jinshan Temple is dedicated to Guanyin Bodhisattva and was once used as a prison. The temple's main structure features brick clay walls, creating a solemn atmosphere. Currently, parts of the temple are under renovation, with some areas fenced off. Despite this, you can still feel the deep sense of history when you step inside.

Located in the heart of Jinshan Street, Jifu Temple suggests the collective worship of multiple Earth Gods (Bogong). Previously, it was the site of the Shangzhuang Bogong. However, with the construction of the third phase of the Hsinchu Science Park, six Bogong statues were relocated here, forming the present-day Jifu Temple.

Interestingly, after the establishment of the high-tech companies in the park, participating in this traditional belief became a custom. It is said that when production lines encounter issues or halts, praying at Jifu Temple (or other nearby Bogong temples) helps the machinery and factories run smoothly again!

Despite the development of the Hsinchu Science Park, which led to the relocation of many Hakka settlements, Jinshanmian retains much of its rich Hakka culture. For example, the Guandong Market, featuring traditional Hakka red brick architecture, offers a wide variety of authentic Hakka delicacies, such as salted pork, traditional rice dishes, and Hakka rice-based cuisines.

Entering the market, you'll hear vendors’ heartwarming greetings in Hakka. Each phrase seems to tell stories of Hakka perseverance and hard work. The atmosphere is imbued with the rich essence of Hakka culture!

Located near Guandong Bridge, Guandong Market is a crucial traffic hub between Hsinchu City and the Zhudong area, attracting many vendors. Over time, Guandong Market has evolved into the current Guandong Market Complex.

The first floor of the Guandong Market Complex serves as a traditional market. The third floor houses the Hakka Themed Library, designed in the layout of a Hakka courtyard house. The fourth floor is home to the Hsinchu City Hakka Center, which hosts various Hakka-related exhibitions each season. Each floor offers a deep dive into Hakka culture!

Visiting the Hsinchu City Hakka Center on the 4th floor of the Guandong Market Complex, you can explore various aspects of Hakka culture through themed exhibitions. In addition, you can join community kitchen classes to learn how to cook Hakka dishes while also learning the Hakka names for different ingredients. During my visit, the theme was Hakka cuisine. The exhibition vividly displayed the dietary habits of Hakka people, emphasizing “locally sourced, simple, and natural ingredients” and "seasoning." It showcased how simple cooking techniques can transform ordinary ingredients into delicious Hakka dishes.

The exhibition showcased a variety of traditional Hakka delicacies found at local markets - salted vegetables, flavorful bamboo shoots, and more. It vividly brought to life the sights and smells I had encountered while strolling through Guandong Market. Seeing these familiar foods on display provided a tangible link between the concepts I had learned and the vibrant culinary culture I was immersed in.

People usually say, "Where Hakka people settle, Bogong worship takes root." So it was only fair that my Jinshanmian journey culminated at Fengkong Hill after leaving the vibrant Guandong Market. There, I found Fengkong’s first Bogong temple, standing next to the high-speed rail tracks - a spiritual guardian over the local Hakka community's lives. Behind this age-old house of worship towered one of the oldest camphor trees in Taiwan, its 300-year legacy mirroring the deep roots of Hakka culture in this land.

During the early construction of the high-speed rail, the Bogong temple and the camphor tree faced demolition as they were directly in the path of the planned route. However, thanks to the joint efforts of cultural historians and government agencies, the high-speed rail route was altered to preserve the temple and the ancient tree. This successful preservation effort was even featured in the Taiwan High Speed Rail Corporation’s promotional advertisements, making it a prime example of the harmonious co-existence of infrastructure development, environmental conservation, and Hakka culture.

When people think of Zhubei, they often picture its towering concrete jungle and bustling modern cityscape. However, Zhubei is also one of Taiwan's important Hakka communities. Similar to the East District of Hsinchu City, the local Hakka culture in Zhubei has gradually integrated into the modernization trend due to changes in urban industries and population movement. To uncover its rich Hakka heritage, one needs to dig deeper. Fortunately, Zhubei has two Hakka architecture and cultural preservation areas that make it easier for visitors to experience and understand Hakka culture.

Speaking of the development of Zhubei, one cannot overlook the Lin family. They first came to the Liujia (formerly known as Liuzhangli) area for land reclamation in the mid-18th century, constructing the Liuzhangli Canal and establishing a settlement. During the Lin Shuangwen rebellion, they organized a volunteer militia to help quell the uprising, significantly bolstering the Lin family's influence. Although the descendants of the Lin family no longer reside here, the ancient residences from that era are still well-preserved in the Liujia Folklore Park in Zhubei.

Visiting the Liujia Historical Residences allows one to learn about the Lin family's history of land reclamation and their past glories. The buildings also reflect the Lin family's prominence in the area. For instance, the Lin Family Ancestral Hall is dedicated to the Lin ancestors and serves as a crucial ancestral worship site for the Hakka Lin family. The main hall's swallowtail roof signifies its prestigious status conferred by the imperial court, and the most important Zhongxiao Shrine is the former residence of the Lin family. This building adopts a five-bay design with the main hall in the middle, a classic style of Hakka residential architecture.

Each old house here has its own story, recording the history of the Hakka people. Walking through these ancient houses feels like stepping into a charming Hakka world, experiencing the passage of time and the depth of the culture.

Following the Lin family, the Chaozhou people (Lin family of Liuzhangli) arrived in Taiwan and established a settlement in the Liujia area of Zhubei, spanning approximately 1.6 hectares. Centered around Zhongxiao Shrine, they named this settlement New Tile House, which now boasts a 250-year history. A unique feature of this settlement is the Flower Drum Troupe, formed by residents in 1947, which became a famous local performance group and a cultural promoter. Like the Fengkong Kaishan Bogong Temple, the New Tile House settlement faced demolition due to high-speed rail construction. However, thanks to the efforts of cultural historians, it was successfully preserved and became the first Hakka cultural preservation area in Taiwan.

The entire park's buildings are well-preserved, including two century-old earthen houses that exude an ancient charm amid modern skyscrapers.

Every building here is a preserved relic, sealed away for decades, whispering tales of rich and vibrant Hakka legends to all who pass by. The Hsinchu County Government's Cultural Affairs Bureau currently manages the New Tile House Hakka Cultural District, using it to promote traditional Hakka arts and hosting artist residencies to continue the legacy of Hakka history and culture.

For me, Hsinchu is a part of my youth. Revisiting this place and feeling every familiar yet novel corner opens my eyes to the city's rich heritage and culture. Walking through the streets and alleys, I feel the depth and longevity of its culture. Gazing at ancient street houses, I see the resilience and wisdom of the Hakka people. Immersing myself in the bustling markets, I connect with Hakka cuisine and daily life.

Hakka culture is part of the soul of Hsinchu. This place is interwoven with countless stories, with every detail forming the most moving tales of this city. So let's go! Join me in exploring Hsinchu and discovering the vibrant Hakka culture that shapes this city.