Hakka Tour

Highway 61, also known as the West Coast Expressway, runs along the western coastline of Taiwan from north to south, connecting the coastal towns and serving as a crucial transportation artery for the residents. Recently, I embarked on a road trip along the highway, exploring the scenic coastal towns of Houlong, Tongxiao, and Yuanli in Miaoli County. Join me as I unbox the captivating attractions in Miaoli along this western coastal highway!

Stretching from Bali in the north to Qigu in the south, Highway 61 is Taiwan's longest expressway, spanning the entire length of the island's western coastal regions. Not only does it link the emotions of these seaside towns, but it also serves as the perfect gateway for visitors to discover the charm of these small coastal areas.

When it comes to Miaoli's attractions, most people tend to gravitate towards the more popular mountainous towns like Sanyi, Nanzhuang, and Tongluo, thanks to the government’s recent emphasis on promoting the Romantic Route 3. However, the coastal towns of Houlong, Tongxiao, and Yuanli, connected by Highway 61, also boast a rich Hakka cultural heritage. Let's embark on a journey along the West Coast Expressway and uncover the unique scenery and attractions that these three coastal towns have to offer!

When you hear the name "Houlong," what comes to mind? Perhaps not many are familiar with this small coastal town. However, if you've had the chance to take the high-speed rail to Miaoli County, you'll know that the Miaoli High-Speed Rail Station is located right in Houlong Township! This coastal town, connected to the Taiwan Railways Coastal Line, quietly guards Miaoli's coastal regions alongside its neighboring towns of Tongxiao and Zhunan.

Completed in 2014, the Miaoli Hakka Round House stands adjacent to the Miaoli High-Speed Rail Station within its designated district. As the closest attraction to the Miaoli High-Speed Rail Station, its construction initially sparked controversies and discussions. Modeled after traditional Hakka earthen buildings, the round house consists of one underground level and three aboveground levels. Integrated with the surrounding park, it serves as a leisure and cultural exhibition space for residents, occasionally hosting farmer's markets on holidays. In 2014, it was ranked second among Taiwan's top five hotspots, and visitors are also recommended to explore the nearby Beishi River Riverside Trail, Yingtsai Academy, and other downtown attractions.

Formerly known as the "Minnan Academy," the Yingtsai Academy stands alongside the Miaoli Hakka Round House within the designated district of the Houlong High-Speed Rail Station in Miaoli. Despite being a newer construction, its entrance hall, lecture hall, flanking student residences, curved corridors, Wenchang Temple, and the Scholar Bridge spanning a detention pond all draw inspiration from Minnan architectural styles and the spirit of traditional academies. The academy grounds feature facilities such as the Wenchang Temple, lecture halls, Dacheng Hall, and static and dynamic exhibition areas, attracting many exam candidates to come and pay homage to Wenchang Dijun, the God of Literature. Visitors can even rent traditional costumes and immerse themselves in a nostalgic atmosphere by taking photos within the academy's compound.

The Cape of Good Hope in Houlong Township, Miaoli County, is a famous sunset viewpoint in Miaoli. On a good weather day, you can see the beautiful scenery of the Taiwan Strait stretching out before you. I first learned about the Cape of Good Hope during college when my roommate took me to explore his hometown in Miaoli. He spent three days riding his motorcycle, leading me through every street and alley of Miaoli. He told me there was a spot I would definitely love, a place they frequented in Miaoli - the Cape of Good Hope in Houlong.

My first visit to Tongxiao Township in Miaoli County was back in 2010 when I was still a student. It was my first time traveling around the island by train, and the peculiar place name “Tongxiao”, which means "stay up all night" in Chinese, caught my attention. As a student majoring in Visual Communication Design, commonly known as a "burning-the-midnight-oil" major, I often found myself pulling all-nighters for assignments until daybreak. So, when I arrived in Tongxiao, the name immediately reminded me of my frequent late-night study sessions. Since I always stayed up late, how could I miss visiting Tongxiao?

Baishatun Gongtian Temple, dedicated to Mazu, is the spiritual center of the residents of Baishatun. From Baishatun Station, follow the road to the left to reach the liveliest settlement in Baishatun. Past the level crossing, you'll find the Gongtian Temple dedicated to Mazu. The Mazu statue worshipped in Gongtian Temple has a longer history than the temple itself, locally known as "Da Ma" (Great Mazu). Every year, there's a regular pilgrimage to Beigang in the north, but what makes Baishatun Gongtian Temple famous is its unpredictable pilgrimage route. The procession's distance and direction for the day are determined by Mazu's divine guidance. Drawing over a million participants each year, it's the biggest event along the central coastal region. During the return trip, the usually quiet Baishatun is flooded with countless worshippers, creating an unprecedented buzz and liveliness. Even outside the procession season, the surrounding businesses thrive, offering various souvenirs, snacks, and agricultural products. And there stands the magnificent temple at the end of the street, shining brilliantly, silently guarding the Baishatun settlement for over a century.

During Taiwan's era of Japanese rule, shrines of various sizes dotted the landscape. Over time, some were demolished, some fell into disrepair, while others were fortunate enough to be preserved. Many of the remaining shrines underwent localization - renovated or rebuilt, sharing the same bones as their Japanese counterparts but with slightly different exteriors. Tongxiao Shrine on the Hutoushan (Hutou Mountain) in Tongxiao is one of the shrines preserved from that era. After World War II, the main hall of the shrine was converted into a martyr's shrine, hence the presence of the KMT party’s emblem on the shrine. Its unique blend of Chinese and Japanese architectural styles makes it stand out, and it was designated as a historical building on November 26, 2002.

Named after the fluttering of butterflies and the name of cows, Flying Cow Ranch is a long-standing farm in Tongxiao and an iconic family destination in the area. The ranch adopts a development strategy centered around life, production, ecology, cultivation, conservation, restoration, and education. It boasts vast, lush greenery, inviting visitors to explore its expansive grounds. Strolling through the ranch's grassy fields, you'll encounter not only Holstein and Jersey cows but also facilities like the butterfly area, sheep area, and a specialized area for dairy cow husbandry. It offers children the chance to feed rabbits and sheep and experience milking cows in the ranch workshop. Baking and craft activities are also available. If you wish to extend your stay, the on-site shops offer dining options and cozy cabin accommodations. It's the perfect place for leisurely relaxation and for children to connect with nature in a fun and engaging way.

I remember my first trip to Yuanli Township was at a college friend's invitation. Being from Yuanli, he took me to explore his hometown during the summer break, wandering extensively around the town. As we headed back, I curiously asked him what he thought was the best part of Yuanli. He told me, "The reed." Revisiting Yuanli years later, though the stories and scenery have faded somewhat in my memory, I don't feel foreign at all.

Yuanli is one of the earliest developed townships in Miaoli, and Yuanli Old Street, located on Tianxia Road, is one of the best-preserved old streets in the Miaoli region. Some buildings still exhibit Baroque-style decorations, and some retain their original brick and pebbledash facades, although time has weathered them a bit. Despite the adjacent bustling market, walking along the old street reveals a high vacancy rate in the buildings. Some still in use, after being renovated, have become somewhat of a disaster, a far cry from the aesthetic of their time. After a few steps, an old-fashioned barber shop caught my eye, exuding a nostalgic atmosphere. Sunlight streamed through the glass windows into the dimly lit space, where shaving and haircut tools lay scattered on the tables. The barber, well into his fifties, snoozed in a wooden reclining chair, with a breakfast plate left on the side. It seemed like no customers had arrived yet that day. The two chairs in the shop, over forty years old, seemed to await the arrival of new customers, just like the barber. Everything in the shop preserved the atmosphere of the past, while the mirror, reflecting countless faces, aged gracefully, unaffected by the passage of time, still shining bright and clean.

Reed is the lifeblood of Yuanli, woven together through the foundational "pressing" technique, creating a vibrant tapestry. Nestled in the old street, Zhenfa Hat and Mat Shop established in 1922 has witnessed the rise and fall of Yuanli's reed industry. Inside the shop, the white-haired proprietress greeted me with a warm smile, inviting me to take my time exploring. It exuded a sense of familiarity accumulated over time. Yuanli is the homeland of reed, where the hat and mat industry thrived. At its peak, households along Tianxia Road were engaged in the reed industry, and many major traders began their businesses here. However, as the demand for reed declined, only a few shops remain in the old street. Zhenfa Hat and Mat Shop specializes in handcrafted products woven from Yuanli's indigenous triangular reed. You can choose a hat you like or buy a pair of special grass shoes to feel the past era through the texture of reed.

Reed is a significant traditional cultural industry in Yuanli, also one of the cultural highlights introduced to me by my friend when I first traveled to Yuanli Township. Also known as common rush or mat rush, reed exhibits vigorous vitality and mainly grows in the wetlands of Da'an River, Fangli River, and the downstream of Yuanli River. Early Yuanli residents discovered its durability, cultivating and weaving it into various household items to sustain generations, fostering the cultural industry of Yuanli.

During the Japanese colonial period, Yuanli’s reed weaving products were exported to Japan as high-quality and exquisite handicrafts, bringing considerable income to the town’s people. This reversed the traditional perception of valuing males over females, as females skilled in reed weaving were considered more valuable than males working outside. To introduce more visitors to the reed culture of Yuanli, the Reed Cultural Center was established next to the Yuanli Farmers' Association. The center preserves and exhibits many precious and beautiful reed weaving techniques, serving as the cultural gateway for visitors to understand Yuanli's reed culture. The center also offers reed DIY activities. For more information, you can call (03-774-1319) to make a reservation for the experience!