Hakka Tour

Embark on a journey to explore the quintessential Hakka culture in the vicinity of Kaohsiung, in the charming town of Meinong. It feels like stepping into the homes of the Hakka people, brimming with their vibrant and diverse cultural elements. 

The first stop on this cultural expedition is the quaint Meinong Paper Umbrella Culture Village. Witness the exquisite beauty of traditional handmade oil-paper umbrellas here. Next, indulge in the newfound joys along Yong'an Road's old street. Don't miss capturing moments at the over 80-year-old historical site of the former Meinong Police Substation, now transformed into a literary-themed spot, blending coffee and dining experiences. Savor desserts here while reading a book, experiencing the ancient charm where time and space seem to converge.

Just across the road stands the over 90-year-old Meinong Old Bridge, evoking the enchanting allure of old Meinong! For a nostalgic trip back to the entertainment memories of the 1950s shared by the people of Meinong, visit the abandoned Meinong First Theater, an architecturally intact structure of significant historical and cultural value. In addition, the two-story, 200-year-old designated historical landmark, Meinong East Gate Tower, a rare sight in Hakka communities, is in close proximity. Nearby is the important religious site, Meinong Zhuangtou Bogong Temple, home to the oldest Bogong (Earth God) deity in the Meinong region. 

As you depart from Yong'an Road, the final stop leads straight to Meinong Lake, offering panoramic views of the simple yet charming Hakka countryside and its picturesque fields.

When it comes to food, my focus is on seeking out local hidden culinary gems. Instead of exploring the bustling Flat Rice Noodle Street, this time, I arranged a visit to Meinong Ah Chiu Meatball and Flat Rice Noodle Shop, a place almost exclusively catering to local Meinong patrons. With an old-school and understated style, it offers simple yet delicious Hakka flavors, although finding this place can be quite a challenge!

Then there's Meinong Dangaotan, a bakery born from the Hakka Affairs Council's Talent Retention Program for Meinong, combining local agricultural produce to create an array of bread and toasts that leave an unforgettable taste in your mouth. Venture into an inconspicuous alley off Yong'an Road, near Meinong's Shengjun Temple, and discover the oden and tempura stall that opens only at four in the afternoon. For the past 40 years, this stall has been selling these delights at affordable prices, becoming a favorite spot for locals to enjoy afternoon snacks. 

Finally, there's the perpetually crowded Dongmen Shaved Ice and Dessert Parlor, an age-old shaved ice shop. Indulge in the nostalgic flavors of their traditional shaved ice, relishing the refreshing moments cherished by the people of Meinong during the sweltering heat.

As Taiwan's first Hakka paper umbrella cultural village, admission to the village is free and it stands as a must-visit attraction for travelers exploring Meinong in Kaohsiung.

The establishment of the Meinong Paper Umbrella Culture Village has played a pivotal role in preserving, inheriting, and promoting the indigenous art of oil-paper umbrellas. It serves as the starting point for understanding the profound cultural and artistic charm of Meinong’s Hakka communities. Within the village, numerous beautifully painted oil-paper umbrellas are exhibited, showcasing the crafting process and allowing visitors to witness their creation. Guests can experience immense joy by painting their own umbrella. Moreover, engaging in pottery-making adds an interesting dimension to the visit. Don't forget to grab some Hakka specialty souvenirs or savor the Hakka pounded tea to ensure a worthwhile trip.

Admire a variety of beautifully crafted traditional oil-paper umbrellas, each exuding vitality through its painted designs.

You can also immerse yourself in the fun of painting oil-paper umbrellas, creating one that embodies your unique style.

The rustic and picturesque garden landscapes, adorned with oil-paper umbrellas and design elements, emit a distinctive aura. It's a perfect setting for filming period dramas.

Visit the agricultural produce section and indulge in some Hakka snacks! Don't miss out on trying the must-have spring roll ice cream—it's a delightful treat!

When it comes to Hakka souvenirs, essentials like fried shallots and Meinong Hakka pounded tea are a must. A journey to Meinong’s Hakka communities is incomplete without bringing home some of these tasty local specialties.

What's great about Ah Chiu Meatball and Flat Rice Noodle Shop is its outdoor parking area, making it convenient for both car and motorcycle travelers. The shop offers seating both indoors and outdoors, providing a spacious dining environment.

If I hadn’t tasted the Hakka-style Meinong flat rice noodles, I would have felt like something was missing from this trip. So, I headed straight to Ah Chiu Meatball and Flat Rice Noodle Shop for a hearty lunch. Although this place is not frequently discussed online or in food guides, and it’s not located in the densest cluster of Meinong flat rice noodle shops, locals and tourists alike flock here from everywhere during peak dining hours, thanks to word-of-mouth recommendations. Especially on weekends, it's always full. This shop offers a diverse selection of Hakka cuisine. Signature dry and soup flat rice noodles are a must-order. Other popular dishes listed on the menu include stir-fried pig intestines with ginger, stir-fried white water snowflake, and Hakka-style stir-fry. The meatballs, which are crispy on the outside, tender on the inside, and stuffed with chunks of meat, are also extremely popular. Pair them with a bowl of pig blood or pig stomach soup—rich and delicious, simply irresistible!

The delectable Hakka cuisine is also affordable. I ordered the my favorite dry flat rice noodles, coupled with a plate of stir-fried pig intestines with ginger that packed a tangy punch, and a soup with generous servings of pig blood and pig stomach. Upon seeing the dishes, my appetite was instantly whetted.

You can never get enough of the dry flat rice noodles, served with some slices of meat. I gave it a good stir to perfectly blend the flavors of the fried shallot and the noodles. The noodles are chewy yet smooth, and when paired with chili sauce and black vinegar, they create a flavor explosion!

I was ecstatic seeing the ample pig blood in the soup! The pig blood is tender and has a bit of crunchiness to it, complementing the flavorful broth perfectly.

Retaining its original blend of Japanese and Baroque-style architecture, the Meinong Cultural and Creative Center was repurposed in 2015 and serves as a tourist service center. Later, a café was opened inside the building to energize the space.

Yong'an Road is one of the earliest developed streets in the Meinong region, also known as Yong'an Old Street. The former Meinong Police Station, built in 1933, resided here. The police station features a brick-and-wood mixed Japanese-style structure and the classical Baroque aesthetics. Its washed pebble columns, exterior walls, black roof tiles, octagonal windows, and 13-groove tiles - all contribute to its architectural uniqueness. After restoration, the building retained the Japanese style of the Showa period, preserving the original layout while incorporating wooden furniture, adding a touch of Japanese flavor. Trust me! Any random angles here result in captivating photos. If your visit to Meinong, this is a great place to take photos!

Don't assume that only the main building is worth viewing; the courtyard boasts beautiful landscapes, spacious grounds, along with well-preserved gun fortresses, air raid shelters, air raid alarm towers, gate pillars, a police dormitory, and an autumn maple tree estimated to be at least 110 years old. Together, they safeguard the collective memories of old Meinong residents, witnessing the historical development of Meinong. In 2015, this former Meinong Police Station was officially transformed into the Meinong Cultural and Creative Center. After a few years, the management of the center was entrusted to the Love Hope Foundation. The Cradle Cafe x Hui Ru’s Cozy Home, focusing on dining, literature, and creative arts, opened to provide a reading space infused with the aroma of coffee, making it a worthwhile place to linger.

In front of the building is a spacious, meticulously maintained garden, contributing to the overall beautiful environment.

The exterior structure, each brick and pillar, every door and window, holds value as a part of historical stories. Besides capturing nostalgic photos, take time to appreciate the details to better experience its beauty.

At the intersection of Yong'an Old Street and Zhongzheng Road, you can clearly see this over 80-year-old historical building from the Japanese colonial era, formerly the Meinong Police Station.

Upon entering, you can see the bar area and order counter on the right-hand side. Take a quick look around inside before ordering.

The original interior layout remains intact. The comforting scent of cypress wood embodies the antique charm of the wooden house.

Ample natural light filters through the windows, complemented by warm yellow lamps, enhancing the beauty of the space. With multiple seating options, including chairs and floor seats, every corner of the shop offers a distinct and comfortable ambiance.

Before ordering the food, spend some time appreciating the meticulously curated art and cultural exhibitions. The theme changes periodically. You can buy the artworks displayed for sale - I was particularly struck by the vibrant creations by Yayoi Kusama during my visit.

Functioning as a tourist service center, the center houses books related to local Meinong stories and exhibits a vintage sound system playing soothing music.

The freshly baked salted cake on the left boasts a crispy outer layer and is generously stuffed with fillings. On the right, the lemon cake offers a dense texture with a tangy and sweet taste.

As you step into the successfully transformed Meinong Cultural and Creative Center, you’ll find the aroma of coffee fills the air! Retaining its Showa-era Japanese style, this former Meinong Police Station shines brightly with the addition of the cafe. Presently managed by the Love Hope Foundation, the Cradle Cafe x Hui Ru’s Cozy Home exudes a retro atmosphere, subtly blending in an artistic and leisurely vibe, incredibly comfortable. Various cultural exhibitions, seminars, and unique experiential activities are held occasionally. During my visit, there were creative products and precious artworks created by renowned artists on display. The shelves are filled with all kinds of books - pick one, order some coffee and dessert, and immerse yourself in the blissful enjoyment of art and literature during your journey.

Reading is also a main focus of Cradle Café. Thus, the café has an abundant collection of books for browsing. It is also a place to learn about the development of the local Hakka community.

Behind the Meinong Cultural and Creative Center stands an old Japanese-style police dormitory and the distinctive Kaohsiung Public Library Meinong Branch, closely connected. The central plaza area is a perfect spot for leisure and recreation for Meinong locals.

This quaint Japanese-style wooden building was once an old police dormitory and is said to have a history close to a century.

The Kaohsiung Public Library Meinong Branch also serves as the Meinong Education and Cultural Arts Center. With an extensive collection of books, many related to Hakka culture, this place offers a well-equipped and high-quality reading space.

Don't miss this precious century-old autumn maple tree towering proudly in front of the Meinong Cultural and Creative Center.

At both ends of the bridge, stone steles were erected to protect children and stop vehicle from entering. The stone monkey sculpture atop was crafted by the renowned stone sculptor Lin You-fu.

At 90 years old, Meinong Old Bridge is the only landmark-grade historical bridge preserved in Meinong. Constructed in 1930 (Showa Year 5 of Japan), this bridge served as an important route connecting Meinong's political, economic, and commercial center to the outside world. It also facilitated communication between northern and southern townships, ensuring convenient transportation at the time. Spanning across the Meinong Creek, one side directly faces the former Meinong Police Station, while the other end leads to the traditional Meinong market. 

Strolling leisurely atop this retired bridge, you'll witness the marks left by time. Despite its aged appearance, the reinforced concrete structure remains in remarkably good condition - aged but sturdy. The stone steles at the bridge entrances prevent large vehicles from passing through, ensuring pedestrian and schoolchildren safety. This measure also extends the longevity of the old bridge as it continues to witness the historical development of the old rural town.

Situated on Yong'an Road, Meinong’s first developed street, the Meinong Dangaotan Bakery infuses the aroma of baked bread into this 70-year-old house, renewing its intrinsic value.

This building retains the original architectural facade. Walking under the arcade and opening the door unveils numerous delightful surprises waiting to be discovered within.

Having evolved from a home bakery studio to a full-fledged bakery, it gradually made a name for itself. Later, it relocated to its current spacious location, undergoing revamping to enhance its quality and style. This two-story old building, constructed during the Japanese colonial period, boasts a 70-year history. Formerly known as the Baoshoutan Clinic, its transformation into a bakery has given it a unique new interpretation, where the essence of Meinong's culture blends with the inviting scent of baking, leaving a lasting impression.

Situated on the old street of Yong'an Road, the Meinong Dangaotan Bakery is the first cultural and creative business operating under the Kaohsiung City Government's Talent Retention and Development Program for Meinong. Founded by a couple with extensive baking experience and professional skills, this shop sells a diverse range of products, including bread, toast, cookies, and cakes. Most of these delicacies are crafted using local agricultural produce and ingredients. Varieties such as Orange Honey Tomato Toast, Water Snowflake Cheese Toast, Meinong 147 Rice Toast, Miso Water Snowflake Biscuits, and Meinong Red Quinoa Rose Cookies enable customers to savor the local flavors and characteristics through tasting the baked goods. I know many visitors come specifically for the water snowflake bread, toast, and biscuits because water snowflake is an agricultural specialty of the Meinong region, providing a refreshing, sweet, and crisp taste that pairs exceptionally well with these baked goods. This fusion is extremely appealing and consistently receives positive reviews.

The bread section is packed, with people shoulder to shoulder. The wide variety of bread, toast, cakes, desserts, and cookies on the tables are sold rapidly as everyone knows the limited quantities mean they have to buy quickly.

I was eager to try every flavor of bread and toast! The bread made using the local agricultural ingredient, water snowflake, was especially popular. Personally, I was also impressed by the rose butter cranberry toast - highly recommended!

The wall designs add a lovely touch, presenting their specialty products through illustrated paintings.

The decor and furnishings create a wonderful atmosphere! The wooden tables and chairs, coupled with retro floor tiles, emit a warm historic charm.

The well-preserved appearance of the closed Meinong First Theater retains significant historical and cultural value, allowing people to recollect the shared memories of the old generation in Meinong in the 1950s.

Walking closer to the long-abandoned Meinong First Theater feels like traveling back to the 1950s-60s. While the main structure's exterior remains intact, the cement walls, iron railings, ticket booth, and hand-painted signs bear some marks of time after five decades, with a touch of vicissitudes. The iron gate remains closed, preventing entry, leaving visitors to reminisce about the theater's past from outside. The theater used to be a popular leisure spot for Meinong locals of all ages, showcasing not only movies but also glove puppetry and traditional Taiwanese opera performances. A passerby, who returned to Meinong for the Lunar New Year, said, "The First Theater was the first cinema in our town. When I was a kid, my parents used to bring me here to watch shows. It was bustling back then. I remember we often had to wait in long queues."

The ticket window at the theater entrance, screening schedule, handwritten price list, movie posters, red-letter signboards, and red-framed white lettering all retain traces weathered by time.

Looking through the iron gate reveals a vintage hand-painted movie poster. According to the news report, the interior of the theater has fallen into disrepair and decay over the years. Hopefully, someday it will be refurbished and restored for more people to visit.

The First Theater is currently a relatively lesser-known and less-visited tourist spot in Meinong. However, for the older generation of local residents, it holds irreplaceable precious memories and local sentiments. This once-thriving old cinema remains today, holding extraordinary value and a unique charm that invites everyone to savor its distinctiveness.

The Meinong East Gate Tower stands tall, making it the area's most notable historical landmark. As you approach, its imposing presence becomes more evident.

Considered a local treasure, this tower reaches approximately 10 meters in height. Its origins trace back to 1756 during the Qing Dynasty when it was reconstructed from the former east stockade gate of Meinong village. The goal was to protect against potential threats like thieves, robbers, and invaders. Although the East Gate Tower faced destruction in the Japanese colonial period, it underwent reconstruction, restoring its current classical appearance. The sheer grandeur of this structure, resembling an ancient city gate, is truly impressive! Crafted with steel and cement, its solid and robust foundation supports a square-shaped arched entrance on the ground floor. While the alarm bell tower, remodeled during the late period of Japanese rule, has been removed, the exterior design imitating the ridged roofs of Qing Dynasty architecture, the couplets on the columns, and the inscriptions on the plaques all hold historical significance and are worth noting.

Upon reaching the second floor, you'll be greeted by an open viewing terrace enclosed by railings on all sides. From this elevated vantage point, visitors can behold the picturesque and serene Hakka village, offering a panoramic view that contrasts with the lively scenes of the Yong'an Old Street and the flat roadways below. I highly recommend making your way up here for a spectacular view!

The plaque above the gate bears the inscription "Start Civilization," a phrase proposed by Huang Xiangyun, a respected scholar from Meinong who returned to his hometown in the ninth year of Qing's Daoguang era (1829 AD). However, it's a remodeled version after the original was destroyed.

A rare sight in Hakka villages, this two-story ancient gate tower boasts a history of over 200 years. Despite damage during Japanese rule, it was rebuilt to mimic traditional castle tower style and has been well-preserved in its current state.

Stone monuments standing on the gate walls - one reading "Rectifying Social Mores" and the other "Rebuilding the Fude Altar" - tell a profound history. On the other side, an interpretive plaque quickly introduces visitors to this East Gate Tower.

The Meinong Zhuangtou Bogong Temple is the oldest earth god temple in the Meinong area. Neighboring the East Gate Tower, it has the typical characteristics of Hakka Bogong altars.

Continuing down from the East Gate Tower, you'll soon encounter the the Meinong Zhuangtou Bogong Temple. The over 100-year-old ancient banyan tree behind the Bogong Temple stands out prominently. The shady pavilion nestled under the lush canopy and the surrounding open space has been a beloved spot for nearby residents to gather, chat, and relax after meals or during leisure hours. In Meinong, what locals refer to as Bogong is essentially the earth god, also known as Fude Zhengshen - a God of Prosperity in Chinese folk religion. The Meinong Zhuangtou Bogong Temple serves as an important religious center with ancient historical roots. Its exterior differs significantly from traditional Minnan-style earth god temples. Constructed using stacked stones and stone slabs, it maintains the typical open-air altar form of Hakka culture. Instead of statues, a stone tablet inscribed with “Seat of Fude Zhengshen” is set up for worship. In the rustic and agricultural Meinong Hakka village, an estimated three to four hundred Bogong altars of various sizes are densely scattered throughout the area. Among these, the Meinong Zhuangtou Bogong Temple stands out as the most representative and well-known, offering enduring protection to this land.

The temple's backdrop is graced by a banyan tree that's over 150 years old. From a certain angle, it appears as if the altar is adorned with an explosive, lush green wig, adding a delightful touch. This banyan tree is one of Kaohsiung City's treasured natural wonders.

The Bogong Temple is situated by the Meinong Creek. Walking along Yong'an Old Street, passing by the East Gate Tower and Meinong Zhuangtou Bogong Temple, and pausing by the creek, the scenery unfolds with flowers, plants, green hills, and the flowing stream, forming a small yet beautiful walking route for a leisurely stroll.

Sporting a blue signboard, this shop is a delightful fusion of an ice cream parlor and a grocery store, boasting a renowned history.

As you head towards Meinong Lake, you'll come across a bustling shaved ice shop. Upon closer inspection, it turns out to be the well-known local gem, Dongmen Shaved Ice and Dessert Parlor, which has been in operation for over fifty years. Widely covered in online articles and even featured on gourmet TV shows, the bustling crowd here speaks volumes about its immense popularity. Its traditional, original flavor shaved ice has a delightfully fluffy texture that melts in your mouth instantly. Enhanced with just the right touch of banana essence, it elevates the sweetness of the ice without being overly sugary. The aromatic flavor balance is spot-on, offering a refreshing and pleasant experience. Starting with the original banana-flavored shaved ice, the shop has expanded to innovative flavors such as chocolate, four-fruit, red bean, green bean, plum, green mango, lemon, egg with milk, and pudding, with prices mostly ranging between NT$30-40. In addition, the shop offers green bean soup, winter melon tea, black tea, smoothies, and tofu pudding, providing diverse options to satisfy visitors' cooling cravings. This is the best place for indulging in traditional shaved ice during scorching weather.

Upon entering, you'll notice a snack section to your left, while staff on the right are busy preparing and serving the shaved ice.

Indulge in the distinct flavors of chocolate milk shaved ice, red bean milk shaved ice, and banana shaved ice, relishing these delightful cool treats cherished by the people of Meinong.

The red bean milk shaved ice has a smooth, creamy red bean paste on top, not just distinct whole beans. The sweetness of the red beans does not overpower the refreshing flavor of the shaved ice. Both flavors blend harmoniously. For an elevated taste, the shop highly recommends adding an egg to the shaved ice!

Before 4 PM, a crowd starts gathering, eagerly awaiting the appearance of Uncle Ah Sin, the owner of an oden stall. He arrives around 4 PM, opens the iron gate, sets up several small chairs, and begins his business.

Besides its renowned flat rice noodles, Meinong boasts another immensely popular local food that you must explore. Just a quick online search using the keywords "Meinong tempura" will reveal numerous references to the oden stall at Meinong Shengjun Temple. Tucked away in a modest tin-roofed shack near Meinong Shengjun Temple, this stall, managed by the sixty-something Uncle Ah Sin who has been selling tempura for over 40 years, has been affectionately named "Ah Sin Tempura" by some patrons. Nearby elementary and middle school students love to gather here for a bowl of oden after school, accompanied by a few bowls of hot soup to satisfy their cravings. It's also the go-to spot for local residents during afternoon tea, offering a taste of home for many Meinong locals living away from home. The benevolent owner has made a name for himself by selling oden at very affordable prices over the years, insisting on low profits and high turnover. For instance, I had seven meatballs, carrots, radishes, and tempura for less than NT$40. A full bowl costs way less than you'd imagine. The traditional flavor, combined with the hot soup, savored while standing or sitting in front of the temple, allows you to reminisce about the taste buds of a Meinong childhood.

The small stall, wide enough for two iron gates, is crammed with people of all ages, all here for the oden and tempura. Thanks to media coverage, the fame of the stall has long spread beyond neighboring counties.

There's only one big pot on the stand, boiling ingredients like carrots, radish, meatballs, tempura, and pig blood. Don't miss the flat slices of tempura; they're a must-try!

Just scoop the ingredients you fancy into your bowl and pay after you finish eating. Since it's self-service, remember what you eat, and be honest when paying.

Inside the old milk powder canister near the stove are packets of Little Prince Snack Noodles sold at NT$2. A secret tip for eating the noodles is to mix them with the soup, creating an interesting old-fashioned soup noodle. When you visit here, make sure to try it out.

Owner Uncle Ah Sin usually sells from around 4 PM until around 6 PM or a bit later, but he often sells out and closes early. Today, seeing the long queue... I believe selling out within two hours is entirely possible.

In the middle of the lake stands a red-colored Chinese-style pavilion known as the Zhongzheng Pavilion. Its graceful presence perfectly complements the natural hues of the surrounding mountains and the sparkling waters, creating a scene of serene beauty.

When you seek an authentic glimpse into the rustic essence of Hakka culture and picturesque landscapes in Meinong, the first destination that comes to mind is Meinong Lake. Not only is it the largest lake in the Meinong region, but it also ranks as the second-largest man-made reservoir in Kaohsiung, second only to Chengcing Lake. Over the years, it has been known by various names like Zhongzhen Pond, Zhongzhen Lake, and Miinong Lake. It was later renamed Zhongzheng Lake after former President Chiang Kai-shek visited Meinong. The lake was initially built by local ancestors for irrigation purposes. As you approach the lakeside, a picturesque view unfolds—mountains, water, a Chinese-style pavilion, trees, and grasslands, surrounded by lush farmland. Set against the backdrop of the blue sky and white clouds, the view is extraordinarily picturesque, encapsulating the natural and simple beauty of Meinong's Hakka mountain town.

The lakeside trail features viewing platforms, bridges across the lake, artistic landscape designs, benches, and public restrooms. Through lush landscaping, the precious wetland ecology and environmental resources are preserved. Each year, a large number of migratory birds find refuge here, making it a must-visit paradise for birdwatchers and photography enthusiasts in the south! The lakeside trail is planned as a cycling route around the lake. I recommend renting a bike at the visitor center and leisurely pedaling around the lakeshore, getting up close to the pastoral scenery of the Hakka countryside, which is especially delightful.

The pristine white railings and vibrant flowers lining the lake contribute to charming lakeside scenes. Observing the surroundings attentively along the lakeside trail reveals numerous unexpectedly beautiful moments throughout the journey.

Whether you opt for a leisurely stroll to soak in the beauty of the surrounding mountains or decide to rent a bike for a delightful cycling journey, the lakeside trail offers a serene experience either way.

Vast expanses of flower fields, resembling a huge gradient-colored carpet, blend seamlessly into the natural landscape of Meinong. Traditional old houses, abandoned buildings, and lush mountain ranges provide a picturesque backdrop, enhancing the charming scenery.

The Meinong Flower Season is perfect for family outings, hanging out with friends, or romantic dates. The interplay of colors and sunlight creates a truly romantic atmosphere. My family and I visit here every year to admire this sprawling flower field. The blooming flowers make every photo we take exceptionally stunning against this natural backdrop.

The air carries a gentle and healing fragrance of flowers and grass, soothing the soul with its delicate flow.

Aside from enjoying the flower fields, you will find lots of decorations and artistic landscapes that incorporate local rural and Hakka characteristics.

The flower sea is a picturesque display, vividly decorating the Hakka countryside with its vibrant and dazzling colors.

Amid several hectares of vibrant flowers, a fleeting glance might just lead you to discover the most beautiful flower that resonates with your heart.