Hakka Tour

A One-Day Trip to Guanxi! With the rise of budget airlines, everyone can snag a cheap ticket and embark on an adventure, bringing us closer to the world. In recent years, many have traveled to Japan, especially Kyoto in the Kansai region. The charming old-style houses lined up there are so captivating, igniting wanderlust in many hearts. Few know that among Taiwan's 368 townships, one was once known as Kansai during the Japanese colonial era and later renamed Guanxi. Located in Hsinchu County, Taiwan, Guanxi is the birthplace of Taiwanese grass jelly. The dark, delectable treat has driven the development of Guanxi, and in November, the township is adorned with beautiful fields of grass jelly flowers. Now, let's explore Hsinchu together, unlocking our relationship with this delicacy, embarking on a one-day trip to Guanxi, and discovering its attractions, delicacies, and tourist farms.

The population of Guanxi in Hsinchu is predominantly Hakka, and interestingly, the place name has a slight connection to Japan's Kansai region in terms of homophony. Guanxi's old name was Xiancaiweng, literally "pickle urn", which sounds almost identical to "Kansai". Therefore, during the Japanese colonial period, they changed the name from Xiancaiweng to Kansai, which was later renamed Guanxi. As you stroll down Guanxi Old Street, passing nostalgic row houses one by one, you'll reach the Niulan River, where a river port was once situated. In the past, all goods circulated from here, fueling Guanxi's prosperity and marking the start of its development.

But prosperity ebbs and flows; the tide of time is unstoppable. It left behind the rural scenery of spring plowing and summer planting, but the fragrance of making grass jelly has never ceased. As time passes, Guanxi's old streets remain quaintly lined up, with surrounding historical sites like Taihe Temple, the old police station, station chief's residence, Dong'an Bridge, Zheng Family Shrine, Formosa Black Tea Company, Shude Hospital, First Theater, Jintai Tea Factory, and traditional markets established during the Japanese era. Instead of bustling crowds, rich historical buildings await history buffs to explore. Whenever the wind of September blows and grass jelly flowers bloom, a purple carpet covers this town, allowing people to enjoy a dreamy flower sea reminiscent of lavender without traveling to Hokkaido.

Guanxi is located on Provincial Highway 3, and most attractions are concentrated in urban and suburban areas. If not driving, you can easily explore urban attractions on foot. However, for suburban sites, it's most convenient to drive yourself. If taking the bus, you can take one to Hsinchu or Zhongli Railway Station and transfer. If considering renting a motorcycle or car, I recommend renting from Hsinchu Railway Station. It's the closest and fastest way to get to Guanxi, and you can extend your trip to Longtan, Daxi in Taoyuan, or head south to Xinpu, Beipu, Neiwan, and Jianshi Township.

• 🚄 High-Speed Rail: Hsinchu StationM
  After disembarking the station, you can transfer to the Tourist Bus 5 to Guanxi (operates only on holidays).
• 🚃 Hsinchu Railway Station (Taiwan Railway)
  After disembarking the station, you can transfer to Hsinchu Bus 5619 (Hsinchu - Guanxi) or rent a motorcycle or car in front of the station.
• 🚃 Zhongli Railway Station (Taiwan Railway)
  After disembarking the station, you can transfer to Hsinchu Bus 5617 (Guanxi –Zhongli).

Guanxi Old Street is located on Taiwan's shortest Zhongzheng Road. Its beautiful alias is Shidianzi Old Street, meaning "bumpy" in Hakka language. When driving to Guanxi and passing the lively Guanxi Market, the street market buzzes with energy. However, after turning onto Shidianzi Old Street, an unexpected tranquility emerges. The low red-brick tile houses, accompanied by arched red-brick corridors in a straight line, may seem unassuming, but they carry a century's historical heritage. I thought this place had a peaceful character, but unexpectedly, it was once a top-tier hub of revelry. In the past, theaters and entertainment venues thrived here, earning it the "Guanxi Ginza" reputation. By exploring on foot, you'll discover cloth shops, hardware stores, blacksmith shops, and traditional Chinese medicine stores lining the old street. Between houses, "passage alleys" connect directly to the market, shaping my initial impression.

In recent years, culture appreciators have arrived in Guanxi. They rented and renovated long-abandoned, forgotten old houses, transforming these century-old buildings into second-hand bookstores, handicraft shops, and even multifunctional exhibition spaces regularly hosting exhibits. Without chasing tourist trends, the old street doesn't sell grilled sausages or grass jelly, instead rooting itself in "culture." Allowing art, culture, and literary ambiance to blossom within these old houses, the old street has gained new nourishment, connecting it to the modern era.

Jinyong DIY Tomato Farm is a long-standing local tourist farm in Guanxi, offering the joy of pick-your-own tomatoes. Beyond tomatoes, they also offer seasonal fruit and veggie picking like strawberries, bitter melons, mini cucumbers, and green peppers. Visitors can sign up for the farm's DIY courses too. It's a highly popular and well-reputed spot in Guanxi. As you step into the counter area, you'll see a vibrant array of tomatoes neatly arranged, like a painter's palette of colors. Reds, yellows, oranges, blacks, purple-blacks, and even an unripe-looking green variety await. The farm grows over thirty tomato varieties, including rare ones that will open your eyes!

The Grass Jelly Museum is themed around the grass jelly plant abundantly grown in Guanxi, creating a natural history museum. Though not huge, it showcases the development history of Guanxi's grass jelly, cultivation methods, and production process. The attached botanical garden boasts rich ecology and fruit trees. The highlight is the Grass Jelly Garden, most beautiful when the plants bloom in November. After the tour, visitors can not only make grass jelly hands-on but enjoy freshly made desserts. Grass jelly is even incorporated into dishes like fried rice and chicken soup. Whether sipping a cup of naturally made grass jelly juice or enjoying a bowl of grass jelly pudding, you can taste the nostalgic flavor. Best of all, the museum has no entrance fee or minimum spending, allowing visitors to freely explore and appreciate the wonders of grass jelly.

Located in the outskirts of Guanxi Township, Lo House Academy was once the study hall of the Luo family's Luo Lufu branch. Surrounded by mountains on three sides and shaped like a dustpan, the terrain was cultivated by Luo ancestors a hundred years ago, establishing a single-surname settlement. As a hundred years have passed, the three or four ancient houses left behind have merged into a cluster of residences, some of which are still inhabited. In recent years, many local cultural workers and historians believe this site played a significant role in witnessing and educating the Luo clan in Guanxi. Through the revitalization of the historical site and guided tours, visitors can learn about Lo House Academy. However, as some courtyards are still occupied, visitors can only view from the outside.

On Mr. Brown Avenue in Chihshang, Taitung, an unassuming roadside tree became famous thanks to a classic advertising slogan, earning it the nickname "Aaron Kwok Tree" and attracting flocks of visitors. This amusing phenomenon has spread across Taiwan, with every county and city seeking their own Takeshi Kaneshiro Tree. In Guanxi's outskirts near Lo House Academy, you'll find the Nanshan Takeshi Kaneshiro Tree, with an installation art piece replicating the Mr. Brown Avenue scene for tourists to take photos. What sets this spot apart from Taitung is the surrounding field specially planted with the famous Guanxi grass jelly. During the autumn and winter seasons, the grass jelly flowers bloom one after another, painting the landscape before you in a dreamy purple hue - a breathtakingly beautiful sight.

Established in 1937 as Taiwan Black Tea Co., Ltd., Formosa Black Tea Co., stands tall in the downtown area of Guanxi. It used to be the main gateway for exporting refined black tea to over eighty ports worldwide through the Japanese Mitsubishi Corporation stationed in Taiwan. The old half-wooden, half-brick tea factory has stood for half a century. Recognized by the Hsinchu County government as a historical building, the space has been transformed into the Tea Leaf Museum. Stepping into the museum, you'll find a space with red bricks, tiles, and wooden beam structures displaying a series of artifacts and texts, including luggage used during business trips at that time. Admission to the museum includes a guided tour fee and a commemorative tea cup for tea tasting. After the tour, visitors can also experience tasting six types of tea, allowing them to deeply understand the local stories of Guanxi through the culture of tea leaves.

Built during the Japanese colonial period with the design by Japanese engineers, Dong'an Ancient Bridge was constructed using locally sourced stone mixed with sticky rice-lime mortar. Over a century old, it still gracefully spans the Niulan River. The distinctive retro style of the red brick arched bridge caught the attention of filmmakers, featuring in the movie "Our Times." To accommodate increasing traffic without damaging the historic bridge, a new bridge was built alongside it on Zhongshan East Road, allowing both structures to coexist and serve the residents of Guanxi. The bridge's charm may not be fully appreciated from its surface. To admire the bridge from the most beautiful angle, one must head down to the Niulanhe Riverside Park to witness the bridge's original structure. The riverside park is equipped with many recreational facilities, such as stone benches, and hosts regular markets, making it an ideal spot for an outing in Guanxi!

Each late winter and early spring marks the peak season for strawberries. Northern Taiwan boasts several large and small strawberry planting areas, with Guanxi Township's being particularly extensive. After exiting the Guanxi interchange, travelers heading towards Xinpu Township on County Road 118 will find numerous strawberry fields on both sides of the road. These include popular ones like Dazhong, Agen, Zhenhua, Jixiang, Daluo, Datong, and Shiquan Strawberry Farms. There are both traditional ground-level and elevated strawberry fields for convenient picking by visitors. Dozens of strawberry farms are open to visitors for fruit picking, offering a taste of the locally exclusive – the "Berry Good Times" of Guanxi's strawberry season. 

Anggu Noodles is a super popular eatery in Guanxi Township. Despite its modern facade, this establishment has been in operation for over 60 years, evolving from a small noodle stall to a two-story flagship store run by the third generation. It's a beloved taste of Hakka cuisine for locals, enjoyed from childhood to adulthood. The adorable name "Anggu" originated from the first owner Grandpa Anggu, who affectionately teased kids by saying, "anggu, anggu" when they came for noodles. The must-try signature dish is the nostalgic “Anggu Noodles," featuring wide noodles covered in a rich brown sauce that strikes a perfect balance between salty and sweet. They also serve "Taro Meatball Soup," made with a taro-pork mixture, and purple "Peanut Tofu," both with a delightful taro aroma and solid texture in every bite.

The name Grass Jelly Alley initially led me to expect grass jelly shops gathered like Taipei's Qingcao Lane near Longshan Temple. However, I was surprised to take an elevator up to reach the "alley". It turned out to be an affiliate of the Grass Jelly Museum. Situated in downtown Guanxi, Grass Jelly Alley is a branch of the Grass Jelly Museum, with a storefront specializing in grass jelly products. On the upper floors is a spacious dining where you can enjoy the panoramic view of the entire Guanxi town by the window, quite different than imagined. The place offers various grass jelly-related delicacies, including gel, pudding, ice cream, and juice. The generous portions are perfect for sharing with family and friends. I especially recommend the mildly sweet grass jelly tea as a refreshing post-meal treat during the summer.

On the street of Guanxi, there is a small stall selling beef rolls drawing perpetual eager queues, all clamoring for a taste of this local delicacy. Despite its small size, this beef roll stall sells mouthwatering made-to-order treats that leave a lasting impression, earning it a reputation as one of Guanxi's prime gourmet foods.

Upon taking an order, the owner swiftly kneads the dough and pan-fries it to a golden perfection before piling on the customer's chosen fillings, such as basil, beef, and pork. Generous amounts of fresh cucumber shreds are then heaped atop, creating a visually enticing and mouthwatering spectacle. I couldn't wait to bite in after getting my roll. The juicy beef filling bursts with refreshing cucumber strands, perfectly complementing the rich, multi-layered texture of the crust. Simply delicious! Despite the crowds, the food is served quickly so you'll have your order in no time..

In downtown Guanxi, there are plenty of ice cream shops to choose from, many of which are long-standing local establishments. Happiness Ice Cream Shop, originating in Zhongli, Taoyuan, brought traditional shaved ice to Guanxi, offering a variety of traditional shaved ice and ice desserts made with natural ingredients and fruits. The signature shaved ice flavors, priced per scoop, include milk, peanut, green bean, red bean, Calpis, passion fruit, and kiwi - a dizzying array that might leave you spoiled for choice. Thankfully, the shop thoughtfully bundles popular combos of complementary shaved ice flavors, allowing you to try three different flavors at once. Other tempting iced treats like floating black tea, grass jelly ice, and grass jelly pudding are also available. With their high-quality ingredients, the shop enjoys brisk business all year round. Even during our winter visit, a steady stream of customers filled the premises. It's definitely one of the must-visit ice cream gems in Guanxi!

Guanxi's most famous specialty is grass jelly. Located on Nanjing Road, Yuan Shi Grass Jelly is a shop that attracts passersby with its carefully curated, hipster-inspired decor. The owner, a retired tech industry professional who returned to his hometown of Guanxi, channeled his tech background into perfecting sundew cultivation, ultimately creating two signature offerings: Grass Jelly Pudding and Grass Jelly Tea. What sets Yuan Shi Grass Jelly apart is their adherence to traditional brewing methods, using only the finest ingredients to achieve the natural sweetness and aroma of grass jelly. This commitment has won over not just locals but also visitors from afar, who flock to savor its authentic delicacies.