Hakka Tour

Nanzhuang in Miaoli is not just an internationally recognized slow city; it feels like a charming little town touched by fairy magic.
Nestled in the Miaoli mountains, Nanzhuang's heart lies in its old street, where the famous osmanthus wine has fueled the area's prosperity. The fragrance of elegant osmanthus flowers infuses the alleys with a sweet Hakka essence. Starting at the Shuibiantou Laundry Ditch, the old street winds its way past landmarks such as the century-old wooden post office, the Nogizaka flagstone trail, Yongchang Temple, Shisanjian Old Street, and Kangji Suspension Bridge. These create a relaxed rhythm, defining Nanzhuang's slow-city vibe, complemented by the colorful 80-year-old Hakka fabric shop that adds to the street's diverse charm. Delicacies like osmanthus wine, Hakka radish buns, braised dried tofu, osmanthus glutinous rice balls, and Hakka flat rice noodles delight visitors' palates. Just the old street alone is worth lingering for a whole day, making me realize that the pace of an international slow city can be so leisurely and enjoyable.

Driving into Nanzhuang's mountainous region reveals numerous lesser-known spots, such as Shenxian Valley (or Fairy Valley), Sishierfeng Cold Spring, and Penglai River Fish Protection Trail. Here, the emerald spring waters, imposing cliffs, and dreamy, winding wooden walkways offer a refreshing retreat for the mind, body, and soul.

Once a hub of lumbering and mining, Nanzhuang was the most prosperous town in the mountains. Though its former glory has faded, this tranquil mountain town retains its unique elegance. It presents its distinct Hakka culture to visitors, a fusion of Hakka, Han, and indigenous influences, leaving a lasting impression and possessing a distinctive charm all its own. Without excessive tourist attractions, Nanzhuang maintains an authentic, rustic vibe. A stroll down the old street and a venture into the mountain valleys invites travelers to slow down and create their unique travel stories amid the depth and history of Nanzhuang Old Street.

The Nanzhuang Old Street centers around Osmanthus Alley, beginning at the century-old post office and extending to numerous places worth exploring. The sweet scent of osmanthus wine encapsulates the charm of this Hakka village.

Approximately 80% of Nanzhuang's residents are Hakka. The township, named after the Nanzhuang settlement where the township office is located, is the largest community in the area. It's the second-largest township in Taiwan by area, spanning altitudes from 120 meters to over 2,200 meters, gradually ascending from northwest to southeast. The region is primarily divided into two major mountain ranges: the Jiali Mountain Range and the Baguali Mountain Range.

Upon my arrival in Nanzhuang, Miaoli, my adventure began along the Nanzhuang Old Street. I savored Hakka delicacies before venturing through Osmanthus Alley and other classic attractions nearby. Opting to stay overnight and continue my exploration along the mountain line the next day, I found that this town deserved a leisurely visit of three days and two nights. Nanzhuang is an perfect place for those looking to slow down and immerse themselves in its profound charm.

The wooden Nanzhuang Post Office, over a century old, was established 12 years before the founding of the Republic of China. During the Japanese occupation, it was known as the Nanzhuang Postal Office. In 1946, it was renamed the Nanzhuang Post and Telecommunications Office, and in 1949, following the separation of postal and telecommunications services, it became the Nanzhuang Post Office. Rebuilt in 1935 after the Guandaoshan earthquake, the Nanzhuang Post Office is one of the top ten historic buildings in Miaoli County. Along with the Old Township Chief's Residence and Nogizaki flagstone trail, it is one of the three major cultural assets from the Japanese colonial period in Nanzhuang Township.

The century-old Nanzhuang Post Office, with its warm wooden ambiance, exudes a strong Japanese style. During business hours, it displays the history of the post office's evolution. On the evening of my visit, the main door was securely locked, but the sloping road leading to it had its own charm, enhanced by cute caricatured figures and a specially designed mailbox, creating a playful and childlike atmosphere.

In its early days, the Nanzhuang Post Office also served as a telephone connection point. Hence, next to the post office stands a quaint telephone switchboard.
In the past, making phone calls required the assistance of an operator to connect the call. When calls came in, the plug indicator would automatically drop, prompting the operator to find the corresponding line and plug into the matching jack to establish the connection.
Each jack here represents a unique story. You can also simulate old phone call connection scenes. This interactive experience deeply impressed me, marking the transition from the Nanzhuang Postal and Telecommunications Office to the Nanzhuang Post Office as quite memorable.

Located next to the century-old post office, the long stone staircase is a distinctive feature of Nanzhuang Old Street, known as Nogizaki. In 1897, during the Meiji era, the third Governor-General of Taiwan, Nogi Maresuke, recognized the barrier caused by the high embankments between Yongchang Temple and the street. He dismantled the stone slabs from the Dawukeng Zhang’s house to construct these stairs for the convenience of residents and schoolchildren. In appreciation of General Nogi's kindness, the locals named the stone staircase after him.

Yongchang Temple, situated beside Osmanthus Alley, was established during the Japanese occupation. It worships the Three Great Emperor-Officials and serves as an essential spiritual center for the local community.

This alley is filled with the fragrance of osmanthus, and many local snacks use this flower as ingredients. From osmanthus wine and osmanthus glutinous rice balls to osmanthus sausage, this is undoubtedly Nanzhuang's sweetest and most fragrant street for delightful snacks. Wandering through the alley, you'll encounter many classic snacks unique to the area, leaving you feeling a bit regretful if you don't try them all!

As a fan of egg rolls, I was immediately drawn to this handmade egg roll shop. The friendly staff was busy making each egg roll by hand. The variety of flavors was impressive, including cheese, osmanthus, sesame, cranberry, green tea, and seaweed. Here, you can buy egg rolls individually. The egg rolls were delightfully crispy and aromatic, and the staff allowed us to browse and select at our own pace without any pressure.

Along Osmanthus Alley, the predominant offering is a range of osmanthus wine products. The shopkeepers were very hospitable, inviting us to freely taste their products. In addition to osmanthus wine, they also offer osmanthus vinegar, apple vinegar, and honey vinegar, making them popular souvenirs from Osmanthus Alley.

The freshly baked taro cakes were crispy on the outside and tender inside, especially delicious when drizzled with their homemade chili soy sauce—a definite must-try!

For me, the most unforgettable treat at Osmanthus Alley was their ice-cold osmanthus glutinous rice balls. A large bowl costs only 80 TWD, making it an essential try when visiting Osmanthus Alley.

Soft and tender osmanthus glutinous rice balls filled the bowl, topped with shaved ice drizzled with osmanthus honey. The shaved ice, infused with osmanthus honey, was sweet and fragrant without being overwhelming, perfectly complementing the glutinous rice balls.
Surprisingly, the dish also included refreshing additions like watermelon, banana, and apple slices, creating a delicious and layered taste experience that was both delightful and cooling.

In Osmanthus Alley, most snacks are typically taken to-go; however, a 50-year-old noodle shop offers seating and opens early in the morning. We visited here for breakfast on our second day in Nanzhuang. We ordered their homemade wontons and dry noodles, a classic breakfast choice in Nanzhuang.

The taste of the wontons and noodles, especially when paired with pig's diaphragm and vegetables, made for a truly satisfying breakfast.

At the end of Guihua Lane, the Shixiankeng laundry ditch, also known as Shuibiantou, is located at the entrance to the alley. Here, locals have placed dozens of stone slabs over the irrigation canal, a spot traditionally used by Nanzhuang women for washing clothes and dishes, and for friendly chats. The canal's clear and cool water remains remarkably clean. Early in the morning, I even saw women washing clothes here, creating a picturesque scene. Nanzhuang Old Street has retained this charming tradition. When visiting Guihua Lane, take a stroll to this area and immerse yourself in the traditional lifestyle of Nanzhuang women.

Yang Mama's Hakka flat rice noodles, radish buns, and handmade cold rice cakes are classic souvenirs, boasting distinctive flavors unique to this region.

The brown sugar cakes in Nanzhuang are disc-shaped, slightly different from the common ones we usually see, yet they remain classic snacks in Nanzhuang.

For an authentic Hakka cuisine experience, I highly recommend Er Jie Hakka Restaurant. Here, every dish is freshly made to order, delivering genuine Hakka flavors that are sure to delight your palate.

We ordered a table of set meals for only NT$680, and the four dishes and one soup left us extremely satisfied. The free-range chicken was tender and packed with flavor. My favorite was the Hakka stir-fry, which was rich and delectable. The stir-fried bamboo shoots and vegetable fern were fresh and tasty. The bamboo shoot soup with pickled mustard greens was a standout, featuring a sweet and tangy broth. This entire feast was devoured in no time.

As I strolled through Nanzhuang Old Street, I found myself wondering, "Why haven't I seen any Hakka floral fabrics in this Hakka town?" Just then, as the thought crossed my mind, I turned my head and there it was - Fu Xing Fabric Store. Its vibrant Hakka floral fabrics brought a splash of color to the old street. The shop, run by an 80-year-old lady who still appeared hale and hearty, has stood in this small town for over six decades. This store offers unique Hakka floral fabrics, ranging from traditional cotton quilts and mosquito nets to wedding trousseau and gifts for one-month-old babies. They also have Japanese yukatas and other Hakka fabric accessories. It felt like discovering a hidden treasure on the old street. When visiting Nanzhuang's old street, be sure to stop by and greet the charming lady who runs the fabric store.

The warm-hearted shop owner insisted we try on the yukatas made from Hakka floral fabrics. The colors and cuts of the yukatas were fantastic - light, comfortable, and reasonably priced. I truly wished I could have taken a few more home.

The 80-year-old owner was incredibly welcoming and encouraged me to try on several yukatas for photos. I thoroughly enjoyed this traditional shop, brimming with Hakka charm and a genuine human touch.

The Kangji Suspension Bridge, located beside Shisanjian Old Street, spans 154 meters, connecting Nanzhuang Old Street with Nanjiang Old Street. It's a unique feature in the Nanzhuang old street area.

Since the Japanese colonial era, Nanzhuang has been home to the Saisiyat and Atayal indigenous tribes, living alongside Hakka people. It was once a thriving center for mining and lumber industries. During its peak, Shisanjian was the sole route for transporting coal from Penglai and Donghe, making it the most bustling spot in Nanzhuang. Over time, it transformed into the most populated street. As the lumbering and mining industries gradually declined, residents began establishing watch shops and bakeries, enriching the area's daily life. As crowds shifted towards Zhongzheng Road, many shops in Shisanjian experienced a decline. However, several storefronts still retain signage from past businesses.

Shisanjian Old Street is calm and tranquil, a stark contrast to the bustle of Nanzhuang Old Street. It’s an ideal place for a leisurely stroll to experience the city's slower pace. Young entrepreneurs have slowly been returning to Shisanjian to set up businesses, but finding open shops can be hit or miss. For two consecutive days, I tried to visit Shandu Bakery and Tieguo Coffee, but sadly, they were both closed. They seem to be quite unique establishments.

Currently, the street accommodates both residences and shops, with faded signboards. Old-fashioned noodle shops and grocery stores are scattered along the streets and alleys.
A distinctive feature of Shisanjian Old Street is that there are more residences than shops. The house numbers on the homes represent the first store opened by each old house's owner. Discovering the adorable history of these houses is part of the charm of visiting Shisanjian.

Golden Legend Bakery, situated between the Kangji Suspension Bridge and Shisanjian Old Street, boasts a garden and a glass house, making it a popular dining spot in Nanzhuang Old Street.

Feeling tired from walking the old street? This bakery is the perfect place to take a break. The view of the Kangji Suspension Bridge, coupled with coffee and wood-fired bread, makes for a wonderfully leisurely afternoon tea experience.

The Sishierfeng Cold Spring Ecological Hiking Trail, nestled in Nanzhuang, Miaoli, lies upstream along the Penglai River. It features magnificent valleys and springs that resemble fairy-tale landscapes, all surrounded by lush woodlands. The crystal-clear water of the cold spring, resembling glimmering glass beads, sparkles brilliantly under the sunlight, creating an ethereal atmosphere.

With a consistent temperature of 18 degrees Celsius year-round, the cold spring's ecology is well-protected, hosting a variety of beautiful fish in its spring-fed ponds. Despite the surrounding towering forests, sunlight gently filters through the tree canopy, scattering like thousands of shimmering diamonds. The area, encircled by streams and forests, is pleasantly cool with gentle breezes. The path from the entrance to the scenic spot is a mere 10-minute walk, covering a total length of 400 meters. However, the enchanting atmosphere here entices visitors to linger and bask in the forest's gentle embrace.

This place is simply breathtaking! It's amazing to find such enchanting hidden gems that are easily accessible. The carefree scenery here is definitely worth the drive up the mountain to explore.

The Sishierfeng Cold Spring Ecological Hiking Trail is a user-friendly path. It’s remarkably short, requiring only 10 minutes to walk from the entrance to the spring-fed ponds. Besides this beautiful trail, there's also a magnificent valley and red bridge, as well as other spring-fed ponds, contributing to the area's diverse ecological landscape. It feels like stepping into a secret forest realm from the movie Avatar, with an overwhelmingly enchanting atmosphere that makes one forget all worries upon entering.

The trail is accompanied by the soothing sound of water flowing through the valleys, ensuring your journey is never lonely. The ethereal quiet of the mountains combined with the unrestrained spirit of the valleys creates the most natural high-frequency music.

The expansive spring-fed pond resembles an exquisite painting, reflecting the surrounding mountains and trees on its surface – a mesmerizing scene that one can never tire of.

The Sishierfeng Cold Spring Ecological Hiking Trail is indeed a hidden gem. Covering a total distance of just 400 meters, it offers an effortless and enchanting journey without an entrance fee. The path is smooth and easy to navigate. Next time you visit Nanzhuang Old Street in Miaoli, consider adding this beautiful spot to your itinerary.

Miaoli's Nanzhuang is truly like a fairyland! Hidden within the mountains and forests, the Shenxian Valley features a majestic gorge and streams. Walking through bamboo groves and along wooden walkways, the magnificent gorge reveals itself in just five minutes.

This Shenxian Valley is one of the scenes where the movie Seediq Bale was filmed. With its grand gorge and a suspension bridge spanning the valley, combined with the expansive mountain landscape, it feels like a place where immortals meditate and practice. The forested mountains are incredibly serene. In just five minutes, you can enjoy sights like the gorge, bamboo groves, and a suspension bridge – making it a trail with high cost-performance value. In this undisturbed sanctuary, your body, mind, and soul are fully cleansed by the natural ambiance. Come for a fantastical encounter with this fairy-tale valley. Join me in stepping into this movie-like scene to experience the splendor of the gorge's landscapes, offering a different vibe from the tranquil mountain forests!

Located in Nanzhuang, Shenxian Valley is about a 20-minute drive from Nanzhuang Old Street. The valley, situated 1.5 kilometers below the Lukchang tribe in Nanzhuang Township, sits at an altitude of 650 meters. The gorge features a sandstone terrain and is the source of the Shanggang River. Streams from the central-southern Luhu River and the western Fengmei River converge here, creating spectacular twin waterfalls.

A sacred site for the Atayal tribe, Shenxian Valley, formerly known as Death Valley, is embraced by cliffs, gorges, forests, and bamboo groves. It’s also a filming location for Seediq Bale.

Shenxian Valley truly lives up to its name with its ethereal charm. Majestic cliffs stand tall, with giant sandstone rocks scattered throughout the valley. The stream converges into waterfalls, creating a powerful symphony of nature. The gorge's terrain, seemingly carved by divine forces, is awe-inspiring. It's hard to believe such magnificent gorge landscapes exist in Taiwan.

Spanning the gorge is a suspension bridge. At the end of the bridge lies a closed pathway. The view of the gorge from the suspension bridge is even more breathtaking.

The cliffs and the magnificent gorge, bearing the marks of time, are artworks of nature's carving, showcasing the most unique appearances shaped by time. Here, the rushing stream finds its most powerful expression.

The enchanting Shenxian Valley, with its fantastical appearance and mysterious atmosphere, is mesmerizing. Due to the swift flow and depth of the stream (reaching 2 meters), swimming is prohibited. The stacked rocks and the stream intertwine, presenting a stunning view. Just enjoy the natural mystery and stories with your eyes and feel them in your heart.

Nanzhuang in Miaoli is indeed a real treasure trove - its old streets are filled with human stories, and its forests conceal dreamy, hidden spots. Every exploration here brings delightful surprises. The Penglai River Fish Protection Trail marks the starting point for my adventures in Nanzhuang.

The Penglai River Fish Protection Trail, nestled in Miaoli's Nanzhuang, leads into a wooden walkway enveloped by the forest. Along the way, the babbling sounds of the green river valley flow like nature's eternal rhythm, gently accompanying our steps like a melodious sonata.

The winding trail follows the mountain's contours, with the shy valley hidden within the lush woods. Only halfway along the trail can one fully appreciate its beauty.
The stream, rushing over large rocks, is crystal clear to the bottom. The water quality and ecology have been carefully maintained by the locals, creating this tranquil trail. Stretching 1.6 kilometers, the trail is an easy walk, with the fresh breeze making our steps lighter. This beautiful paradise, significant for fish conservation, is both naturally formed and nurtured by the local people's love for the land.

Penglai River Ecology Park, tucked away in the Nanzhuang mountains of Miaoli, is accessible by a smooth drive, despite the mountain roads. At the trailhead, spacious and comfortable restrooms, as well as vendors selling food and water, are available. The environment is tranquil and serene. From the platform here, you can glimpse the valley hidden within the forest. The soothing sound of flowing water is incredibly therapeutic, inviting us to embark on the trail and immerse in the forest's beauty.

In 1999, severe overfishing in the Penglai River nearly led to the extinction of several fish species. The following year, locals established the Penglai River Patrol Team. In 2001, the Nanzhuang Township Office declared the water sources, tributaries, and streams within a 15-kilometer area downstream of Nagasaki as a conservation zone. This area has since maintained a healthy ecological and aquatic environment.

Fish species protected here include candidia barbatus, acrossocheilus paradoxus, and onychostoma barbatulum. As a designated conservation area, swimming, fishing, and poaching are prohibited, allowing the fish to thrive.

The entrance to the Penglai River Fish Protection Trail features a winding wooden walkway through the forest, surrounded by lush greenery. On the day we visited, it felt like stumbling upon an uninhabited land, with the trail's solitude adding to its peacefulness. On one side is the gentle sound of a mountain stream flowing through the valley, and on the other, the natural symphony of birds chirping, creating a truly special experience.

Standing before us was a scene reminiscent of Jurassic Park, with the forest's trees vibrant and flourishing. The fresh greenery, the meandering stream, and the long valley create the most romantic chapters of this area.

On the return trip, the sunlight slowly trickled down, transforming the lake surface into sparkling emerald green, so clear that you can see the bottom. The splashing water glittered like gems - a paradise for fish and a testament to the successful conservation efforts by the local community.

Constructed in 1897, the Tianmei Yonghe Temple stands as a significant religious center in Nanzhuang. Renowned for its exceptional artistic value, especially its temple murals and decorations, it was designated a historical building in 2008.

The origin of Tianmei Yonghe Temple dates back to the Qing Dynasty when the Hakka people settled in Nanzhuang and faced significant conflicts with the indigenous population. The Huang Qiying family proposed building a temple as an act of goodwill and to foster harmony between the indigenous and Hakka communities. Hence, the temple was named Yonghe, which means “eternal harmony.”

Registered as a historical building in 2008, Tianmei Yonghe Temple worships the Three Great Emperor-Officials and holds significant importance in the beliefs of local residents. The temple houses numerous culturally valuable artifacts. Though the thriving incense haze obscures the temple's original splendid appearance, it still preserves its most precious cultural assets.

The murals and ceiling paintings inside the temple, created on-site by mural master Li Dengsheng, have immense artistic value. This contributed to Tianmei Yonghe Temple being recognized as a historical building.

The sculptures of the Three Great Emperor-Officials, the Wenchang Emperor, the Shennong Emperor, and the dragon carvings on the stone pillars, all carved on-site by skilled craftsmen, are highly treasured.

This place, contrasting with bustling tourist areas, holds significant importance in local beliefs. When visiting Miaoli Nanzhuang, take a moment to stroll here and experience the solace and tranquility the temple offers to the soul.

Known as the "Mountain of Miaoli County," Jiali Mountain stands at an altitude of 1350 meters, with its peak reaching 2200 meters. It features a Class 1 triangulation station at the summit and is listed among the Minor 100 Peaks of Taiwan, earning it the nickname "Mt. Fuji of Taiwan." The hike to the summit spans about 3 kilometers.

The vegetation on Jiali Mountain is primarily composed of cryptomeria. Sunlight often peeks through the trees, creating a play of light and shadow that I adore. The altitude of 1350 meters results in relatively cool temperatures, and the mountain breeze is refreshingly cool, offering a great escape from the summer heat.

The round-trip journey to the summit typically takes about 6-8 hours. If you plan to reach the peak, it's advisable to wear non-slip shoes, carry warm clothing, rain gear, enough water, and food. The mountain weather is erratic, prone to thunderstorms in the afternoon, and the signal reception is weak (we had no signal during our ascent). Therefore, it's safer to hike with companions.

Fengmei Creek, which runs through Jiali Mountain, is filled with huge rocks, and the water flow is very rapid. Thankfully, ropes are available to aid in crossing the river, making the crossing relatively easy.

After descending through winding mountain forests, you encounter large boulders and rapid streams. Holding tightly to the ropes and stepping firmly is essential to avoid falling. The final part is a long uphill stretch without stone steps; you must rely on wooden stakes and your judgment of stable rocks for progression. Seeing the distance markers increase from 0.5 kilometers to 1 kilometer reminded me of a friend's saying: "Mountain climbing is more a test of willpower than physical strength." This became abundantly clear. Although my legs were weak, my love for the mountains kept me moving onward, eager to see the most beautiful mountain vistas.

Though I didn't reach the peak this time, I fully experienced the beauty of Jiali Mountain. I plan to return for the summit challenge when better prepared and physically fit.

Miaoli Nanzhuang's cultural richness and diverse tourist resources are profound. The delightful food of the old streets and the hidden treasures of the mountain town are truly captivating. I love the slow pace and tranquility here. Spending a couple of days and a night in Nanzhuang is well worth it to deeply experience and appreciate the beauty of this Hakka mountain town.