Hakka Tour

During a train ride from the south to the north, my attention was drawn to a row of coastal wind turbines outside the window. If memory serves me right, one of the train stops was at Houlong. The spinning wind turbines along the coast, combined with the deep and boundless sea view, captivated my gaze. It sparked an infatuation with Miaoli's coastline.

The coastline in Miaoli is incredibly picturesque. As someone who grew up near the sea but now resides in the city, it holds an irresistible charm. This journey along Miaoli's coastline feels custom-made for me. From the offshore wind turbines to the seaside parks, every moment has been profoundly enchanting. The gentle sea breeze embraces me, compelling me to pause and deeply inhale the unique scent of the ocean.

The Miaoli coastline offers a romantic expedition among wind turbines, featuring the beauty of the ocean and leisurely strolls. The relaxed ambiance at Miaoli’s Slow Fish Coast pleasantly surprised me with ideal surfing conditions. The eye-opening seafood auctions, intriguing stories behind burning joss paper, and the enigmatic Miyazaki-style twin tunnels continue to touch my heart each time I visit.

There's no need for a tightly packed itinerary. Embrace the Miaoli coastline with a relaxed mindset and indulge in a heartwarming journey at the Slow Fish Coast!

Let's start the Slow Fish Coast journey from Qiding Station.
Qiding Station marks the initial stop on the route to Miaoli. Despite its small size, it boasts many classic scenes. If you disembark onto the first platform and turn left after leaving the station, you'll reach the twin tunnels. To catch a view of the sea, head towards the rear of the second platform to exit the station.

The platform's striking blue and white appearance exudes an old-time charm with its genuine, unadulterated essence. The grey-white walls and sturdy wooden seats make it quite a cozy spot. It's not often you find a platform with a small sheltered area to shield from the wind and rain. I find it rather nice.

En route to the twin tunnels, there's an observation deck where you can gaze at the ships along the coast. Looking up, you may catch a glimpse of the Phantom 2000 piercing through the clouds, while also overlooking the trains whizzing by. It's a chance to witness three different modes of transportation.

Moreover, this place is perfect for watching the sunset. What's special is that the wind turbine on the left signifies the winter sunset position, and the one on the right on the right signifies the summer sunset position. From left to right happens to mark one full year. Taking photos of the sunset from this place across all four seasons would be quite intriguing.

It's been four years since I last visited Qiding Station, and this time, I noticed over 20 new offshore wind turbines. The sheer number was so astonishing that I lost myself in watching them as a wind turbine enthusiast. The offshore turbines, seemingly floating atop the ocean surface, exude an aura of mysticism that imbues the already gorgeous seascape with an added fantastical charm.

The Qiding twin tunnels derive their name from the presence of two tunnels. The Qiding Tunnel No. 1 measures about 130.78 meters in length, while Tunnel No. 2 is around 67.84 meters long, with a distance of 50 meters separating the two. One is longer, the other shorter, hence the twin tunnel moniker.

The tunnel entrance at Qiding is remarkably wide. From the entrance, you can gaze onto verdant views in the distance. It emanates a particular beauty of serenity, unlike the normally dark and dim feeling of tunnels.

There are some pockmarks at the tunnel entrance, which are actually bullet holes left behind from Allied planes during World War II pursuing trains into Taiwanese airspace. Comparing to the air raid shelter seen earlier, I felt so fortunate to be living in a time of peace. A world without war is indeed a blessing.

Raise your camera high! The canopy formed by the green leaves and branches glistens with sunlight streaming through. The place is as beautiful as a forest, feeling as though Totoro might appear at the tunnel's entrance any moment!

This place feels like a scene straight out of Hayao Miyazaki's movie My Neighbor Totoro.

This segment of wooden stairs is also enveloped by lush foliage, giving the illusion of strolling through a forest.

Around Qiding Station in Zhunan, there are numerous other attractions waiting to be explored. You can discover each one step by step on the map.

Gently inhaling the carefree serenity of the ocean breeze, basking in the brilliance of the winter morning sun, the wind turbines in the distance spin to their own melody, while I simply want to quietly embrace the romance of this fleeting moment.

Qiding Station possesses a casual coastal charm, the forest-like twin tunnels emanate a dreamy atmosphere, accompanied by the scenic wind turbines. All I can say is, “This station is truly beautiful.”

Protecting the residents along the coastline is the sacred deity Mazu. Among the numerous Mazu temples I've visited, the Longfeng Temple in Zhunan, home to the world's tallest Mazu statue, made a profound impression on me. As I approached from a distance, the colossal statue perched atop the temple exhibited a gentle and benevolent countenance, as if she was serenely watching over the coastline. Due to the towering height of the statue, I came across the rare sight of restoration of the statue using specialized equipment. Maintaining the flawless appearance of Mazu is indeed a monumental task.

The Longfeng Temple venerates the Heavenly Holy Mother and is dubbed the External Mazu due to its location outside the old north gate. In contrast, the Cihyu Temple in Zhonggang is known as the Internal Mazu. Standing at 136 feet high with 12 floors, the statue of the Heavenly Holy Mother behind the temple ranks as the largest statue of its kind in Southeast Asia.

The Longfeng Temple worships Mazu. What's unique is its distinction as the External Mazu, in contrast to the Zhonggang Cihyu Temple, known as the Internal Mazu.

The Mazu at Longfeng Temple primarily manages affairs outside the city. It's fascinating to learn that even divine affairs are intricately detailed. Listening to the guide's explanations provides a closer connection to the divine realm.

Longfeng Temple was established in the 16th year of the Qing Dynasty's Dao Guang era, making it over 400 years old. The carvings on the temple bear intriguing meanings; it's said that even after the Dutch were expelled by Zheng Chenggong, their figures were carved on the pillars, not out of reverence but as a form of punishment, symbolizing their task of carrying the beams.

The sculptures of the stone lions at the entrance are incredibly exquisite. Legend has it that the stones inside these lions were not placed but meticulously carved out, signifying wealth and fortune.

At the top behind the Mazu statue (about 12 floors high), there is an observation deck offering panoramic views of the Longfeng Fishing Port and the Taiwan Strait. When in Zhunan, don't miss the chance to visit this sacred Longfeng Temple.

Cihyu Temple, the oldest Mazu temple in Zhunan, along with Longfeng Temple, are known as the internal and external Mazu temples. Featuring more sophisticated carvings, Cihyu Temple boasts an even longer and more elaborate history. Designated as a historical site in Miaoli County, it holds immense significance in the local community's beliefs.

Next to the Chen Family Historic House, a whole row of joss paper is being sun-dried. I have never seen joss paper being sunned in such a grand manner anywhere else. Zhunan in Miaoli has the title of Golden Zhonggang Street because it used to be a major hub for the joss paper industry. At its peak, the industry’s output value could reach up to NT$1 billion. Almost all the residents of this village were involved in the joss paper industry. There is still a joss paper factory here that has been around for over 80 years and still insists on manually printing joss paper for the gods.

Initially, I thought that a joss paper factory would be all glitz and glamour. However, as I navigated through the narrow alley, I found a joss paper factory hidden within a small, old house.

As soon as I entered, I saw a cutting machine processing joss paper. Interestingly, the joss paper is made from environmentally friendly materials - bamboo. Nowadays, it’s rare to find joss paper made from such genuine materials.

In the small studio, three local grannies were handcrafting joss paper. It turned out that the tin foil gold leaf in each sheet of joss paper is manually coated with transparent glue and then adhered one by one.

Their hands, weathered with age, move skillfully over the joss paper. One of the grandmothers said been in this line of work since she was a child. Back then, there were no leisure activities. As soon as school was over, she had to start working in the factory. Seeing the process of making joss paper for the first time was quite astonishing to me.

The joss paper-making process here is highly specialized. In one area, the glued joss paper is coated with specially mixed pigments to turn the tin foil into gold. Every step of the process must be handled with care.

Another grandmother is busy using rush grass to package stacks of cut joss paper. It turns out that the joss paper we see is made through such a series of manual processes.

It is said that our ancestors prefer this kind of handmade joss paper. Although the price is a bit higher, it maintains high quality and is also one of the unique cultures of Zhunan!

There are many adorable murals in the town of Zhunan Zhonggang, which bring out our playful side. The fascinating attractions along the coastline are definitely worth exploring.

Situated on the western coast of Miaoli, the Zhunan Coastal Forest Recreation Area spans approximately five kilometers, extending from the Longfeng Fishing Harbor in the north to the Zhonggang River estuary at Haikou Village in the south. This area boasts several enchanting sections such as the Fantasy Wetland, Family Forest, Holiday Forest, and Evergreen Forest. Initially, I had thought Miaoli's coastline was solely a vast expanse of blue ocean, but I was surprised to discover so many hidden and fantastic landscapes, unknown even to the locals. Strolling through the forested wetlands feels like stepping into a painting, evoking a sense of surrealism.

In my memory, surfing seemed to be reserved for places with large waves and expansive oceans like Toucheng's Wai'ao, Hualien or Kenting areas. However, in what appears to be Miaoli's gentle coastline, there exists a hidden paradise for surfers known as the Holiday Forest, where a welcoming surfing village has been built. Many surfers from out of town are drawn here due to the unique characteristics of the coastline, which still maintains its original and unspoiled charm without excessive tourism development. The serene sea and the genuine hospitality of the locals have turned this place into a secret haven for numerous surfers.

Tony, a surfing enthusiast from out of town, discovered the Holiday Forest after numerous searches. He realized this place lacked the commercialized tourism vibe and found the coastal environment here very suitable for living. Thus, he established the Super Duper Express, a place where surfers can relax and grab a bite. The area strongly reminded me of Toucheng's surfing street, feeling like I could just grab a surfboard and head straight to the ocean.

Tony doesn't want this place to become overly commercialized. Besides serving delicious food, he also wants to spread more ocean culture for everyone to know about through his restaurant.

Next to the restaurant, the surfing village has created an intriguing area using many discarded surfboards, where every corner radiates the passion for surfing.

Everywhere you walk, you can feel the leisurely pleasure of slow living. , harmonizing life with the ocean. What else could bring more happiness than being able to live in harmony with the ocean?

Upon revisiting Miaoli's coastline, I noticed a growing trend in offshore wind turbines, which now numbered 22. Due to the strong ocean winds, most people who come for surfing mainly engage in activities like parasailing or kitesurfing. Various water activities are thriving in this vibrant setting.

Here, every season is perfect for surfing, and with the company of these wind turbines, I believe surfing in this spot becomes even more special.

Located adjacent to the West Coast Highway, Longfeng Fishing Port is a natural harbor. Apart from its unique coastline, this is also a place where many seafood store owners and experts come to purchase seafood. Today, we're here to experience the atmosphere of fish auctions.

At noon, baskets full of fresh catches have arrived at the port, awaiting auction. The variety of fish here is extensive, with many species I've never seen before. Some of these fish are impressively large, far beyond what I imagined.

The Slow Fish activity at Miaoli's coastline aims to acquaint us with fish and understand how to eat fish. Visiting Longfeng Fishing Port brings us closer to the source of fish.

The fish auction at Longfeng Fishing Port takes place from 6:30 in the morning until 1:00 in the afternoon. The bidding is conducted by fishmongers. Before the auction starts, many shops are already checking out the catches they want and visitors can explore the area inside. Once the auction begins the gates will be closed for bidding. This was our first time seeing the auction process and we were quite confused throughout. Later, when we asked the store owners who successfully bided for fish, we finally understood the fish auction process.

During the auction, the fishmongers start auctioning baskets of fish, each with a minimum price. Interested bidders raise their hands when the bidding starts at the minimum price. The fishmongers rapidly raise the bid with an urgent tone. Bidders keep their hands up if they can accept the price, but if it goes beyond their budget, they put their hand down to drop out. The final bid goes to the last person still holding up their hand. The bid winner stamps their shop’s seal on it to mark their win. After paying, they can take away their seafood purchase.

The lightning speed at which people were bidding on-site was eye-opening for us. The bidding process was quite exciting. Most of the bidders here are either seafood vendors or fish merchants, and they all seem confident that they will win. Those of us outside the bidding area were also enjoying the spectacle.

Even for those not buying fish, Longfeng Fishing Port offers picturesque scenery. The nearby coastal area mostly consists of reef seabeds, with seaside paths lined with lush windbreak trees. Whether strolling or enjoying the seaside, it's a delightfully relaxing experience.

Stepping on the soft sandy beach, the waves at Longfeng coast gently lap the shore, along with the sea breeze creating a comfortable oceanic atmosphere.

That evening, we set up a blue and white dining table with a marine theme by the harbor. We enjoyed a sumptuous feast at the table, immersed in the relaxing romance of the nearby harbor.

The dreamy interplay of light and shadow during the sunset, as the sun descended in the west, created a picturesque scene. The gentle golden twilight sprinkled down, allowing us to witness the beauty of the harbor at sunset. It was an exhilarating experience for someone like me who rarely has the chance to see the sunset.

The Miaoli Zhunan coastline is filled with a leisurely and relaxed atmosphere, which aligns well with the Slow Fish movement that Miaoli is currently promoting. Originating from Italy, the Slow Fish Movement is aimed at countering the increasingly prevalent fast food culture. Through Slow Fish activities, the government expects to help people understand local marine ecology and learn about the stories behind the fish, the fishing methods, and the art of savoring them at their best before consumption to strike a balance between ecology and culinary delights. By slowly exploring the coastline, we gain more knowledge about our oceans. Take every step slowly to uncover more contentment and inspiration in the slow-paced life.

Join us in exploring the Miaoli coast together.